Got the above problem it all started when we noticed that the radiators where not warming up so had look a combi boiler (worcester Bosch) noticed that pressure gauge had dropped so called a plumber out who filled up to 1 bar and bleeded the radiators. averything worked ok for day and half now downstair are all cold so called out plumber who put some cleaning stuff down the radiator. been told to close off all radiators from upstairs to see if the bottom ones warm up. he said other option was either have a powerflush at £300 or replace all the radiators as there single the last owner had them fitted in 2004 looks like i need another option
radiators warm upstairs and cold down stairs
- Thread starter 2old4this
- Start date
bro
Inactive User
How to Balance Heating System Radiators - Plumbing Tips - YouTube first part of this vid
I'd be taking a hard look at your pump M8. Upstairs rads could thermo-syphon, downstairs ones won't...
Agree with both of the above,
First check the circulating pump is actually working,although I suspect that the heating part of a combi will not work at all if the pump is not working,
if thats ok then try turning down the rads upstairs and see if that helps,the plumber may have opened back up previously closed down valves
First check the circulating pump is actually working,although I suspect that the heating part of a combi will not work at all if the pump is not working,
if thats ok then try turning down the rads upstairs and see if that helps,the plumber may have opened back up previously closed down valves
Did anybody try turning off the rads upstairs to see if the downstairs will then heat up?
First of all 1 bar is not enough pressure you need the minimum of 1.5 for it to work properly. Next as wiz states turn all your radiators off and then open one downstairs radiator and then turn your boiler on and all the heat is directed to one radiator now. Repeat this process to all radiators and it should be fine. once cool check all again for air locks, check your boiler again and make sure it has 1.5 bar pressure in and that should be it.
Agreed,except for the pressure reading,1 bar is plenty but I personally would have it at between 1.5-2 bar
Timelord
Inactive User
I agree with all above, but 2 bar is minimum pressure setting for me, having said that a self installed system gives confidence in joints(not them) throughout system. After install and before replacing boards etc. charge system cold until pressure relief valve activates, anyway the higher the pressure cold, the less gas/fuel used to heat the water to desired temperature. You can try flushing system yourself ie each rad singularly or open drain cock and filling loop flush should clear out sediment, shut upstairs rads off(dont push sediment up) good luck. TL.
headwest
Inactive User
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2010
- Messages
- 301
- Reaction score
- 133
Before you pay out rip off fees for a powerflush try; turn off all rads except one of the downstairs ones. Take out the bleed fitting from the top of the rad (turn the rad valves off 1st). Take the fitting to a plumbers merchant so you can size the correct thread for the plug. buy a compression fitting with correct sized thread and some ptfe tape to avoid leaks. You will need a short length of 15mm copper pipe. Attach the pipe to the compression fitting. Wrap approx 4 revs of ptfe on the compression fitting end and screw into rad. Fix a length of hosepipe to pipe and run hosepipe outside to a drain. Now connect the filling loop on your boiler and open up the valves full wack. Check around the rad for leaks then go outside and look at the water coming out of the drain hosepipe. When it runs clear then so your rad will be clear of gunk. Repeat process on all downstairs rads, do upstairs as well if you like. You will once done have flushed your system of all the shite. When filling add some inhibitor using your compression fitting with a short length of hose attached to a funnel. If you want to be clever add cleaning fluid a day before flushing using the compression fitting and funnel method. This will help start to loosen all the gunk. Use ptfe on all bleed plugs when refitting to avoid leaks.
Thats a bit pointless tbh as you will then need to bleed it back to maximum of 2 bar otherwise your pressure relief valve will blow as soon as the water heats up
Timelord
Inactive User
Thats a bit pointless tbh as you will then need to bleed it back to maximum of 2 bar otherwise your pressure relief valve will blow as soon as the water heats up
You are quite right wiz mate, but out of context, did you quote me my friend ? cos i did state "After install and before replacing boards etc. charge system cold until pressure relief valve activates," and only after install, was only pointing out that a system is only good as its weak points, the joints. I would start with a system flush on this one, before looking any further what you reckon? TL.
Going back to the original post...
... a powerflush would be effective if the system had gradually become less efficient surely? This system suddenly failed to work? Replacing radiators is a typical 'bullsh*t' option, modern radiators are more efficient, older ones still work.
The problem lies elsewhere. Turn the rads off one by one and post the results.
Yes you are right mate I made the assumption based on the premise you were advising the OP and not just giving advise regarding commissioning a new install
Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk 2
Turned all the rads off turned first one on nothing so closed that one off tried next one nothing even the pipes cold
I presume this is downstairs you are testing?
Is the pump running?
and is the pressure at 1-2 bar?
yes downstairs i think the pump is running the pressure needle is in green sort of half way up from bottom. if there was sludge in rads
aleast there must be some life in them cant all be blocked?
Hmm yes there should be something even if they are sludged,even cool to the touch,
I dont really buy into the whole power flush stuff tbh,I installed my heating about 20yrs ago,before there was this whole "thing" about inhibitors etc,and its still going strong as it was the first day it was installed,newer boiler now but no flushing etc etc,
Is it a combi boiler or a heating boiler?
If it was me,I would find out where the heat stops and see if I could crack a fitting near there to see if there is any air trapped,
sometimes years ago there used to be a valve put on the return pipe at the hot press so you could adjust how fast the water flowed to the cylinder first before going to the rads,
During the summer you would open this fully as all you wanted was hot water,then when winter came you would turn it back so as to balance the ratio of flow between the cylinder and the rads,
Dont suppose you have this valve and have forgotten to adjust it?
