Technical topic solo2 clone (please only technical talk)

As ferret has mentioned in another thread practice lifting the chip on an old memory stick of ram or something else you have lying about to get use to it
before attempting to do the box.
 
https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/100

have a read there.

Even for removing its onlyabout 10 secs or so and chip is off
dont heat for too long or can damage board..!!
on my solder station 360 ish works well for these size components
please try on scrap memory module or similar to work out temp range for your environment first.
 
After soldering the new chip, the settings do not need to do anything? I read in another forum that need to remove shortcuts updatings?
 
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The first chip has arrived in Germany for a user and stands on it.


TOSHIBA J93687
Taiwan 13429AE3
TC58NVG1S3ETA00
 
The first chip has arrived in Germany for a user and stands on it.


TOSHIBA J93687
Taiwan 13429AE3
TC58NVG1S3ETA00
I have received that chip on friday, not make any differents to the box and working fine :).
 
then this is the description?
 

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I repost here as the main is over crowded the Wii used to be chipped by grinding the material away from the

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
legs and soldering wires to the exposed legs and the mod chip could this be a way of piggy backing the chip for the solo 2

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk
 
No it won't work.
As far as i i can you have to have only 1 nand connected
or you have you install a switch..

easiest way to remove is with hot air..

or find someone doing xbox repairs.. and ask them they should be able to do..
Or if you near yorkshire or want to mail it, pm me..

But easy way is remove with hot air..
clean up pads.. and used solder iron or solder paste with heat to reattach..

You can try piggback but I dont see it working,
 
Hi,
It is easy
I replaced the chip in this way:
1) I removed the chip by hot air at 380 °C putting the gun near the pins in the both side of the chip and oriented the air to towards the chip. After I gently lifted the chip with angle tweezer
2) I put the flux on the main board's contacts and with iron solder (flat tip) I tinplated the small contacts with the present tin
4) I cleaned fine PCB with trielina
6) I put the new chip in right position and fixed a pin from with iron solder ( small tip) from both sides
7) I put the fux on all pins
8) I setted hot air temperature to 320 °C ( nozzle 5 mm)
9) I put the gun air near the pins on the their vertical pressing the chip with tweezer and I cheched by magnification lens the melting of tin. This for both sides
 
What I have seen in last few days and found on other sites . the safe clone images have only one thing common that the driver should be before 15/12/2013. Still we dont have any confirmation that which dates specified driver has the anti clone attack . seem we have just assumed that this date driver because working with clone so we should use only this date . even we all knows we have already updated version from V1 to V2 . then why we are just considering that date is safe and sound for clones.

Even Chinese sellers has this calculated reply " dear use this date image only ". technically they dont have any information also or they dont want to share which is the last driver has time bomb . One of my Chinese friend says " if u think the Anti-clone attack working with time synchronization then u r safe because in ur box the time zone is different then UK " I admit she has the pointed out one thing also .

I will request u all kindly put some light also in this which date's driver is activating the anti-clone attack . it will be some help also. may be next time we may be able to frame it better before to attack. Because I m watching as the chinese has not fixed this attack with help of the RS-232 port or jtag or some thing .. It seems still they are unable to find the missing link . in my opinion this is not the solution that should wait and watch when the chip will be received . What will be the Next then ?? again u will not be able to update or use current image ..above all we all knows and understand most of us dont have that kind technical skill that they will change the chip every day .

At the Last I will request u all respectfully kindly just post or share something technical and informative rather then filling the thread with the the gossips of " chip ordered , not received " payed dhl " etc
Thanks u all
Finally I have found a reply of question at another forum . Just for information I m pasting the reply here

""" The actual clone is produced by Lonrisun, and is particular to them, and was targeted (as well as their Solo Mini and Duo Mini clones, and iClould Solo). Most probably the attack targeted a specific way their security chip was reacting (to identify the clone and then proces the attack).

For security we prefer to use safe drivers on our images, and newer drivers usually just bring only anti-clone improvements. So it's in most cases useless to use newer drivers.

""
 
Don't think I agree with their last statement, for a relatively new box which the solo2 is newer drivers bring a lot of bug fixes and improvements. You tube playback being one.
 
Don't think I agree with their last statement, for a relatively new box which the solo2 is newer drivers bring a lot of bug fixes and improvements. You tube playback being one.

yes agree with u but i was looking for the answer that which manufacturer's products has been targeted . because mine is from Dragon Worth and still working fine with new BH . even My seller has told me that u dont worrry about it but just for the safety i have 2 chips in my hand for future attack . i have collected some information that currently . Yojitech , L&W and Lornisun SOLO2are killed by the virus. I m trying to find the answer . Which dated driver has hit boxes. from march to april there are almost 8 drivers released . want to find out which one has the carrier of the time bomb.?
 
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Help please
I have replaced the chip checked all is aligned joints look good no bridging and still it will not boot up using just powerlead
seems to be stuck in standby
Is it possible i have been sent a blank chip
Any ideas or is anyone else having the same issue
 
Please post some pics of the install
Its hard to say without any pics.

Is the chip the right way around...
and have you checked the legs for shorts with miultimeter..
 
No there was nothing on VFD at all same symptoms as before I started the original chip came of fine fitted new Toshiba one supplied buy L&W checked for continuity between board and legs of chips turned on with only power lead connected as instructed nothing happened checked power to chip using pdf info from here this all checked out fine I did not use the flood method as shown in the videos I did each leg individualy
I then removed the chip and fitted the second one that I was supplied result exactly the same continuity between board chip fine on power up voltages present
can only assume ive been more unlucky and got blank chips .
Decided against tying to the back of the car and dragging it home im sending it back let them sort it out
Just a tad P****D OFF
 
Forgot to say on the second attempt after proved not working tried the flood and remove method chip legs cleaned up fine checked for shorts
still the same
No Go
 
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