Golf MK2 Engine needs work

[DodgyTech]

It looks quite clean coming out of the exhaust no thick black smoke which is a good sign. Next that new pipe you said you was going to buy well get one it is stuck together with tape by the looks of it and that is not good. Next when it is dark tonight lift your bonnet and look at your plug leads you may find that they are glowing in the dark.In which case you will be getting a weak spark at the plugs invest in a lead or all new leads. Try that and see how you go.

Thanks for the replies mate, really appreciate them.

I'll check the plugs tonight.

With the hot air pipe, I kinda broke it while trying to take it off the other day. But it's really ugly and needs changing. Can you think of anything I could use as a substitute? Easy option is an extractor fan tubing, but I want to find something a but more similar.

 

[miggy]

Get the proper pipe mate it will be heat resistant.

 

[DodgyTech]

AHA, I didn't know what to look for, but after looking in the Haynes manual, I found it's called a Pre-Heater Hose: pre-heater hose items - Get great deals on Vehicle Parts Accessories items on eBay UK!

 

[miggy]

AHA, I didn't know what to look for, but after looking in the Haynes manual, I found it's called a Pre-Heater Hose: pre-heater hose items - Get great deals on Vehicle Parts Accessories items on eBay UK!

That is the one mate if that goes it will create all sorts of problems with your fuel system

 

[DodgyTech]

Just ran the engine. There was no glowing at the plugs or along the plug leads. Was pretty dark so I could catch any jumping sparks from any cracked plug socket things and there weren't any (as was the case before I wrapped them with the green insulation tape).

It gets really jumpy when it's warm and idling. Before that, the auto choke is on so it's running at a slightly higher rev. What could that be an indication of?

 

[miggy]

Just ran the engine. There was no glowing at the plugs or along the plug leads. Was pretty dark so I could catch any jumping sparks from any cracked plug socket things and there weren't any (as was the case before I wrapped them with the green insulation tape).

It gets really jumpy when it's warm and idling. Before that, the auto choke is on so it's running at a slightly higher rev. What could that be an indication of?

Has it been left standing for a while if so its probably chocked up. Make sure no the vacuum pipes are not split.Take the distributor cap of and exam the segments for wear.Its just a matter of checking everything. Your can is known for choke problems though.

 

[DodgyTech]

Has it been left standing for a while if so its probably chocked up. Make sure no the vacuum pipes are not split.Take the distributor cap of and exam the segments for wear.Its just a matter of checking everything. Your can is known for choke problems though.

It has been standing for a long time. So long, that there was some white gunk under the oil filler cap.

I did take off the rocker cover and cleaned it out and breathing pipes out with carburettor cleaner spray. I think i'll just have to go back over the breather pipes as you suggested and hope for the best

 

[cactikid]

if you start wire brushing sump i will say you will get loads more holes as it is rotten.spark plug ht leads do they have a metal casing at base as they used to ark to the head when faulty,i removed the metal shrouds then no arcing happens,vws love plug lead problems,also have a look at the hard plastic servo hose which cracks at connections and draws air in and makes car lumpy,if that has a carb fitted some models had a rubber mounting which became worn and sucked in in,the air pipe that is cracked is not that important,in very cold conditions heat is taken from the hot manifold to warm the air for easier running
if you removed it it wont make any difference.

 

[DodgyTech]

if you start wire brushing sump i will say you will get loads more holes as it is rotten.spark plug ht leads do they have a metal casing at base as they used to ark to the head when faulty,i removed the metal shrouds then no arcing happens,vws love plug lead problems,also have a look at the hard plastic servo hose which cracks at connections and draws air in and makes car lumpy,if that has a carb fitted some models had a rubber mounting which became worn and sucked in in,the air pipe that is cracked is not that important,in very cold conditions heat is taken from the hot manifold to warm the air for easier running
if you removed it it wont make any difference.

Thanks for the info mate. I didn't wire brush the sump in the end. I did patch up the hole using Q-Bond, but now have some stronger liquid stuff that will go over the hole.

I used a spray on engine degreaser and jet-washed the engine bay thoroughly as I will post in a bit. I think I will have to replace the spark plug leads as you will see how the engine is struggling in the videos im about to put up.

 

[DodgyTech]

Thanks for the info mate. I didn't wire brush the sump in the end. I did patch up the hole using Q-Bond, but now have some stronger liquid stuff that will go over the hole.

I used a spray on engine degreaser and jet-washed the engine bay thoroughly as I will post in a bit. I think I will have to replace the spark plug leads as you will see how the engine is struggling in the videos im about to put up.

Engine Before:

Engine so far:

 

[DodgyTech]

Video 1 - How the exhaust is when the engine is running at a slightly raised rev:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYt9_7POKIk]YouTube - VIDEO0074[/ame]

Video 2 - How the engine is when the revs are slightly raised:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjeBJ1lFEjE]YouTube - VIDEO0075[/ame]

Video 3 - How the engine is when the engine is warm and is at idling speed (think it's because one or more spark leads/plugs are not working)

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzPbO2Bo6ME]YouTube - VIDEO0076[/ame]

 

[miggy]

Looks like the exhaust manifold gasket has gone from that picture. The misfire could be a plug or a lead but it also sounds as if its sucking in air from somewhere .

 

[DodgyTech]

Looks like the exhaust manifold gasket has gone from that picture. The misfire could be a plug or a lead but it also sounds as if its sucking in air from somewhere .

How can you tell from the picture mate? I know that the seal for the manifold downpipe needs to be re-done as there's some smoke coming out.

I hope it's only just a lead problem :S

 

[miggy]

How can you tell from the picture mate? I know that the seal for the manifold downpipe needs to be re-done as there's some smoke coming out.

I hope it's only just a lead problem :S

That is your cheapest option at the moment new plugs and leads. It also needs a good run .After that maybe valves sticking or cylinder head or a gasket replacement.

 

[DodgyTech]

Okay, I have really outdone myself this time.

I pulled out the spark leads from the distributor cap and forgot to mark which lead went where. I realised once I pulled out the last one when it was too late! D'OH

I have been going over the net and through my pics and have only managed to find where one of the leads goes. I am getting slightly confusing info from the net, although everyone is saying the same thing, it conflicts with how my leads were wired up (because of the one lead that i am 100% sure about from my pics).

I tried how they recommended on the net, the order was 1-3-4-2 (1 being the furthest left). As 4 was in the bottom right, i assumed 1 to be at the top left and worked round clockwise as I assume that the engine rotates in that direction too.

I've also bought and put in a new distrubitor cap and rotor arm.

I fired it up and immediately, I could tell that the firing is not right so I switched off the car. I have links below of where i've been reading, and also a helpful diagram on one of the websites which conflicts with what I could see in my pics, but it's still worth showing on here. Could it be the spark leads order or maybe just that the distributor cap and arm are so new, the engine needs to run just a bit?

The car is a 1989 Mk2 Golf 1.3 standard engine manual petrol.

I will also attach a few pics of my engine in case anyone else has better eyesight than me

Answers.com - What is the firing order for a 1990 VW Golf
Answers.com - What is the firing order for a 1989 VW Golf 1.6L petrol
Answers.com - What is the firing order for a 1989 volkswagen golf 1.8L petrol

Next is the helpful diagram:

1989 Volkswagen Firing Orders
Engine Firing Orders

Next are some pics of my engine (I think one of the pics shows that 3 could be in the top right, but it's a little hazy):

 

[miggy]

Here is the firing order looking at your distributor plug 1 to number one ect.

 

[DodgyTech]

I FIXED THE PROB!! Woohoo!

While I was sitting there feeling sorry for myself, I was staring idly at the haynes manual and I saw that it showed the firing order, which was 1-3-4-2, but then after sitting there for another 20 mins, I gazed upon the rotor rotation for the 1.3 engine and saw that the engine turned the rotor ANTICLOCKWISE!!

So I went out and swapped 2 and 3 and it worked!!

After a while though, the engine was back to its old antics. After removing the air cleaner unit (where the air filter sits) and realised that a pipe was not connected to the thermostat sensor thingy. After connecting it and cleaning out a few pipes using carburretor cleaner spray, the engine seems to be running nicely (with a little cause for concern, but no more smoke from behind and no more prob at normal idle)

I've learned so much so far

 

[DodgyTech]

Here is the haynes manual page. Hope it shows up well:

 

[DodgyTech]

Here is the firing order looking at your distributor plug 1 to number one ect.

When I first looked at this, it seemed wrong, but now looking at it again today, I realised that it's SPOT ON!

Well done and thanks Miggy

 

[Ja5]

Most 4 cyclinders or 1342 lol

Could of put the bottom pully on tdc mark and the rotary arm would have been at 1.

Some old cars have a cut mark in the dist and thats where 1 lines up.

I did have a listen to the videos but havent read all the post tbh, did sound like there was a air leak but bit hard to tell from a video.

Have you checked all the breather pipes are ok and not colapsed and vacume pipes no splits??