Golf MK2 Engine needs work

in your dreams:banana:lol buy your lottery ticket,it does look very nice.:proud:
 
An old way of removing an oil filter is to drive a screw driver through the side of your oil filter right through to the other side and then just turn the filter with the screw driver. If you are not confident about this you can always buy a chain wrench which may come in handy for future oil changes. Get yourself a torque wrench look at what poundage the wrench should be set at in your manual and away you go. It is a messy job so sheet the floor with bin liners and get something to drain the oil in. good luck mate and keep us informed.

I think I can get my hands on an oil wrench and a torque wrench from a neighbour of mine. If I can't do I have to still tighten the sump bolts at the specified torques? It says 8nm, but all the torque wrenches in my budget start at 10nm! Can I not just do it by "feeling it out"?

some vw oil filters have a nut on end of them 27mm or 30mm,never used a torque spanner for tightning sump ,a lot of vws dont have sump gaskets but use high temp silicone to seal use a good helping,sump nut may only be hand tight in new sump.
for removal of driveshaft i use a few long extensions and splined socket with drivers wheel off and number 3 philips in through wheel stud in flange locks it to release or tighten,word of warning give extension a tap with hammer to make sure spline is inserted all the way.

You lost me on the driveshaft part :O

It hasn't got a silicone gasket, a normal material type of gasket. Do I have to tighten to torque specs or can I hand tighten it?

Looks great but £1,250.00 omg :FRIGHT:

LMAO, tell me about it. I'm not showing that because I want to pay for it. Just showing as an example as I couldn't copy the pictures

in your dreams:banana:lol buy your lottery ticket,it does look very nice.:proud:

LOL, yeah, but it's a good example of what I would like to work towards ideally :)
 
You can hand tighten it mate just dont over do it get the feel of how tight the bolts are when you loosen them. You will find 8nm is not very tight anyway mate goodluck and keep us posted.
 
Most oil filters can be removed by hand (just wrap a cloth around it for grip), as for sump bolts i have never used a torque wrench to tighten them just nip them up don't over tighten they are small bolts and can break.

for the drive shaft you need one of these.
AK5531.jpg

imgres
 
Last edited:
silicone comes in a tube it makes or replaces gaskets or can use with gaskets,sometimes things get slightly bent and silicone fills the void,sump bolts as said need a nip up,not to swing out of it with a 6 foot bar,if you use a 1/4 drive socket set the ratchet will tighten it enough,make sure all bolts are in and entered before tightening.
i have yet to find a vw filter to loosen with my hand.
some vws drive shaft needs to be loosened off and moved to one side to get sump down.
 
I don't have a torque wrench but I have a cordless drill/driver like in this video. I could just use that isn't it?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Geb2MA6tjro]YouTube - (23) Golf Gti Mk2 1.8 Engine Sump[/ame]

I got the car up on axle stands. Gotta undo the sump plug and drail the oil and remove the oil filter. Need to see if I can do this without removing the driveshaft
 
Try and use a short extension bar and a ratchet with the 10mm/11mm socket on it. Its better than a drill.The idea of a torque wrench was purely to stop you over tightening the bolts due to it being your first attempt at a job of this nature.If you feel confident about a ratchet go for it mate just don't over tighten the bolts and make sure all surfaces are clean. Good luck
 
You guys will not believe it, upon closer inspection, I noticed that the hole in the sump was T I N Y!

I had some Q-Bond, so I used the grey powder (for bonding mental) on the hole and then poured the liquid over it to harden it. It seems to have done the trick :D

I don't think I would have been able to change the sump anyway. I would have had to remove the driveshaft and the exhaust downpipe. Even then, I would have not been able to access 2 bolts as they were hidden by some other contraption.

I'll try to attach some vids to show what was happening before and how it looks now and what I mean by the sump bolts being hidden.

The car seems a little jumpy when idle, neighbour reckoned it was to do with a lack of compression because of the oil leaking, but now there's no leak so not sure. The engine recently was overfilled with oil by the clumsy garage, so I think that may have caused some other damage (i did clean out breather pipes and the spark plugs and the air filter area which all had oil in them)!

Video 1 - When the oil was leaking

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FTbu7rjE0Q[/ame]

Video 2 - When the oil was leaking

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpZ8f-CYcTY]YouTube - VIDEO0034[/ame]

Video 3 - What the hole looked like and a look around the bottom of the sump

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldfzxONQqiM]YouTube - VIDEO0036[/ame]

Video 4 - Hole patched up and engine running

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNqU51FmbFQ]YouTube - VIDEO0037[/ame]
 
It looks a bit wet around the sump gasket as well or is it just oil spillage.
 
It looks a bit wet around the sump gasket as well or is it just oil spillage.
Just a whole lot of oil spillage because the leak was spitting out of the hole over a long period of time without me noticing. There are no leaks now, so it's just a case of cleaning up the engine from the top and from underneath
 
that sump is riddled with rust,it needs replacing,nothing will last on it,the bolt on gearbox plate when removed will show hidden bolts when plate is pulled out.
 
As cactikid said the sump looks rusty and it looks like the gasket/seal has gone. Now you have bought the sump why not put it on?. Just my opinion that's all mate.
 
wire brush and goggles for eye protection to clean threads of manifold flange sprayed with wd 40 to help loosen the nuts
 
Hmm, I was actually on my way out to return the sump. Might just keep it now if you think it needs replacing. There's a chance that I might replace the whole engine if I can find a decent engine around for cheap and an afordable mechanic, as I don't have the pulley or tools. If that's the case, then I'll just return it.

There's a pipe connecting the hot air shroud to the air intake bit, but it's crap. Was thinking if I could find something like the following, but not so pricey: [ame=http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-GOLF-MK2-MK3-MK4-3-AIR-FILTER-INDUCTION-KIT-AIR-PIPE-/150577217627?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item230f1a005b#ht_2320wt_1139]VW GOLF MK2 MK3 MK4 3 AIR FILTER INDUCTION KIT AIR PIPE on eBay (end time 21-Mar-11 22:32:56 GMT)[/ame]

The original pipe can be seen in this picture:

DSC03406.jpg
 
If the engine is ok in the car why change it mate?. If you are happy with the sump leak and the way it was fixed then clean the sump with a wire brush and then paint it with a good quality heat resistant black paint. Then you must concentrate on the engine bay. Change that grubby oil filter, change the air filter and then paint the air filter housing in black or whatever colour you choose. Then look at all the engine components and see if you can replace ,clean or paint them.At the end of the day you will probably sell the car so don't spend to much money on it. With the money you make on selling this car you can then buy a newer one and then pimp that one up.It is just my advice I don't want you throwing your money away on something that will not give you a lot back in return.Good luck in what ever you decide and don't take it to heart I myself have done what you have done and spent a fortune on my car.It looked nice but did not make much money for me so I wondered why I bothered.
 
If the engine is ok in the car why change it mate?. If you are happy with the sump leak and the way it was fixed then clean the sump with a wire brush and then paint it with a good quality heat resistant black paint. Then you must concentrate on the engine bay. Change that grubby oil filter, change the air filter and then paint the air filter housing in black or whatever colour you choose. Then look at all the engine components and see if you can replace ,clean or paint them.At the end of the day you will probably sell the car so don't spend to much money on it. With the money you make on selling this car you can then buy a newer one and then pimp that one up.It is just my advice I don't want you throwing your money away on something that will not give you a lot back in return.Good luck in what ever you decide and don't take it to heart I myself have done what you have done and spent a fortune on my car.It looked nice but did not make much money for me so I wondered why I bothered.
Nice one mate. The 45 quid can go towards the things you recommended. I wish I had my own garage so I could do a lot more with the car in my own time rather than in the street
 
Nice one mate. The 45 quid can go towards the things you recommended. I wish I had my own garage so I could do a lot more with the car in my own time rather than in the street
My engine is running like this at the moment. Could it be that the spark plugs aren't doing their job properly? I did clean them but there was one of the plug connectors that had a crack on the side and was sparking out to the side which is why I put on green insulation tape.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rnZJhwxP_8]YouTube - VIDEO0043[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EflCHqvXYFM]YouTube - VIDEO0044[/ame]
 
It looks quite clean coming out of the exhaust no thick black smoke which is a good sign. Next that new pipe you said you was going to buy well get one it is stuck together with tape by the looks of it and that is not good. Next when it is dark tonight lift your bonnet and look at your plug leads you may find that they are glowing in the dark.In which case you will be getting a weak spark at the plugs invest in a lead or all new leads. Try that and see how you go.
 
Back
Top