problems with my condensing dryeradvise please.

[danforth]

I am sure they are both black at one end of the band ,but not 100% about then middle bands because of scorching.
I get the same readings when i reverse the probes.
The blue cap says R4D 63V 10UF 85 celcius.
I could have a go at soldering,i have the gear but not much idea really,worth a try though,where is the best place to get the parts from?
would you just replace the 2 resistors?

We're both typing at the same time.

Assuming the relay coil checks ok (mutimeter) I'd be inclined to change everything else, very little cost.
It would take longer to explain how to test the bridge, than to change it.

We need to find out, (or make an educated guess depending on relay coil voltage/resistance) what the resistor values were.

After that, just take the board to your local Maplin store (or similar ) for parts, or I can post if you have the time.
Alternatively, you can post the pcb to me, will change and return, again if you have time.

You'll need a soldering iron with a 5mm bit or smaller, suggest practice on any old pcb you can find.

 

[danforth]

if i take the resistors out and take them to my local electronic engineer,would he be able to tell me the value?

or will the values be underneath the resistors,got to be worth a go thought.

the relay,i presume you mean the rectangle block?

G2R-1A-E 48VDC V-3 120VAC plus a few other figures with lines,dots etc

Yup, makes sense !

Local electronic engineer may also have access to values from schemaic diagrams.

 

[easymo3]

We're both typing at the same time.

Assuming the relay coil checks ok (mutimeter) I'd be inclined to change everything else, very little cost.
It would take longer to explain how to test the bridge, than to change it.

We need to find out, (or make an educated guess depending on relay coil voltage/resistance) what the resistor values were.

After that, just take the board to your local Maplin store (or similar ) for parts, or I can post if you have the time.
Alternatively, you can post the pcb to me, will change and return, again if you have time.

You'll need a soldering iron with a 5mm bit or smaller, suggest practice on any old pcb you can find.

My soldering iron has a tip of about 2 inch lol,so that is no good,if you would be so kind as to receive the pcb and replace the components,then that would very good of you indeed, let me know the costs.

There is no rush,as i am cleaning everything inside the dryer,the pump has now been checked and working,although it seems a little hit and miss but there is good resistance when i put ny finger on it.

 

[danforth]

My soldering iron has a tip of about 2 inch lol,so that is no good,if you would be so kind as to receive the pcb and replace the components,then that would very good of you indeed, let me know the costs.

There is no rush,as i am cleaning everything inside the dryer,the pump has now been checked and working,although it seems a little hit and miss but there is good resistance when i put ny finger on it.

No problem, saves typing, part cost only. Will PM address.

 

[albob]

just to stray slightly form current discussion --

If a dryer isnt pumping the first thing to do is check for fluff blocking pipe/pump

If the motor stops after a few seconds, and starts when you push drum (or give it a good shake!), this is usually due to the start/run capacitor on the motor blown....

 

[danforth]

just to stray slightly form current discussion --

If a dryer isnt pumping the first thing to do is check for fluff blocking pipe/pump

If the motor stops after a few seconds, and starts when you push drum (or give it a good shake!), this is usually due to the start/run capacitor on the motor blown....

@easymo3. Read above. Start / run cap sounds worth testing.

No rush, but tell me whether the relay contacts on the pcb I'm going to fix, are wired to the pump motor, or the drum motor.

 

[easymo3]

@easymo3. Read above. Start / run cap sounds worth testing.

No rush, but tell me whether the relay contacts on the pcb I'm going to fix, are wired to the pump motor, or the drum motor.

Just had a quick look,there are 4 wires running from the pcb,i know that 2 of them run to the on/off button,the other looks like it is going to the door,again for starting/stopping the drum tumbling.
The 4th is a blue wire,I get continuity at both the drum motor and the pump motor.

just double checked,the blue wire goes into the main control panel and then out again..

 

[danforth]

@ easymo3.

Have you posted the pcb yet ?

Attached is a photo from an old bay listing.

Item is "used but working", heat effect on resistor colours already apparent.

 

[easymo3]

@danforth
Just posted it this morning,first class,so should be with in the morning.

 

[easymo3]

Just had a look at the photo,as you will soon see,the one I am sending you is a lot worse than that.

Did it have a price?

 

[danforth]

It's a "completed" listing, sold for £19.99 + £2.50 carriage. Item no is 310271791896 if you want to look.

Ridiculous, when you consider the £14 link posted above for a new one.

 

[easymo3]

It's a "completed" listing, sold for £19.99 + £2.50 carriage. Item no is 310271791896 if you want to look.

Ridiculous, when you consider the £14 link posted above for a new one.

I think an original replacement was £42 if I remember correctly,do not know how much life that has left,as you say,started to show scorching around the resisters.

 

[danforth]

No way of knowing, they appear to get hot in normal use. The bay one has 05-09 printed on it, may mean made May 2009, but not sure.

In any case, pcb date may not relate to machine manufacture date, when sold, how much use etc.

Perhaps get one from IANB's link if you prefer ? I don't mind either way. Will PM suggestion how to prove pcb is faulty first though.

 

[danforth]

Attached is the cct diagram of the pcb, in transit to me. Very simple, easily fixed (assuming relay is good).

Problem is, can't see how it relates to how the dryer works, or doesn't. Info from easymo3 :-

T1 connects to main board. T2 connects to on/off switch (start ?) and door switch (commoned). T3 connects to on/off (start ?) switch.

T2 and T3 have 240V ac across them, until on/off (start ?) is pressed momentarily, when it reduces to OV ac.

Implication is that the relay is permanently operated, until momentarily released by on/off (start) switch.
Would account for resistor burning, but makes no design sense.

Are on/off and start different buttons ? I can understand what the pcb does and sort it, but can't see how it fits into the bigger picture.

Any info ?

 

[albob]

the relay acts as a 'Start button' (think ianb has said this already..?) - press the start button, relay locks and provides power to main program module which then powers motor and heaters etc. Not sure why they only use them on Dryers (safety?? - does away with need for a mechanical door lock..?)

I didnt think it related to original problem

I have had another thought about the motor stopping and then starting when machine is shaken :: Water builds up in machine reservoir because pump isnt operating ; safety float operates and switches motor off ; user shakes machine ; float resets and motor operates ; water level then goes back to 'flood' level and motor stops again.....

 

[albob]

just read the OP's post number 23 where he says the pump is now working (sorry for any confusion on my part )

regarding Dryers -- some dont have an on/off button or door opening mechanism. to operate them you would close door, select program, press start button (relay now provides power for the machine to operate ; Program finishes and de-energises relay (machine is now Off) ; Should customer want to add clothes to machine while it is working, a press on the door (near the latch mechanism) opens door which de-energises relay, switching machine Off

Hope that helps......!!

 

[danforth]

just read the OP's post number 23 where he says the pump is now working (sorry for any confusion on my part )

regarding Dryers -- some dont have an on/off button or door opening mechanism. to operate them you would close door, select program, press start button (relay now provides power for the machine to operate ; Program finishes and de-energises relay (machine is now Off) ; Should customer want to add clothes to machine while it is working, a press on the door (near the latch mechanism) opens door which de-energises relay, switching machine Off

Hope that helps......!!

Your explanation is logical, and that's my problem.

I can test and/or fix the pcb to work as designed, but if the wiring info (and testing by easymo3) is correct,
it doesn't seem to work as above, which is why I posted the pcb cct diagram.

Pressing the start button removes power from the pcb (de-energising the relay) not the other way round, hence my puzzle.
I don't even know if the relay is operating at all, but can test when I get the pcb. If you look at the diagram, it could be any of the components faulty which, apart from the relay, I can fix. It will, at least, eliminate the pcb as a possiblity, avoiding buying another one.

If it then works, I'll be happy, but still won't see why.

 

[easymo3]

Sorry guys,where I have put "on/off" it is actually "start/stop"

Don't know if that makes any difference or not.

I have been looking into the condenser not work,there is a rotary fan at the back which is on the same spindle as the motor,so when the motor is turning the fan blows up into the heating element,which pushed the hot air into the drum.This was not working correctly,when I fastened it back onto the spindle,it would work itself loose after a while,so it would not push hot air into the drum,so no drying taking place.It is just a thought as I can not find any blockage or anything else wrong.The pcb is either faulty or very near the end of its life judging by the state of it,so a rebuild is a good idea.

 

[danforth]

Sorry guys,where I have put "on/off" it is actually "start/stop"

Don't know if that makes any difference or not.

Not really, as long as there's just the one switch.

Fan, locktite, epoxy ?

 

[easymo3]

Not really, as long as there's just the one switch.

Fan, locktite, epoxy ?

Yes,just the one switch.
I used Araldite to fix the fan to the spindle.