problems with my condensing dryeradvise please.

[easymo3]

I have had a problem with my dryer in that it does not seem to pump water out via the outlet as it used to do.

Thinking it was the pump,I stripped the dryer down although i have not tested the pump,I saw on one of the circuit boards on of the resistors? had blown.

I have a multi meter but not sure if/how i can test the board to see if it is the culprit.

You can see from the photo,the other is where it is located in the dryer(front left top of the dryer,where all the electrics/boards are located.

Thanks guy's I hope i can get some help on this because I do not want to buy a new dryer.

 

[danforth]

I have had a problem with my dryer in that it does not seem to pump water out via the outlet as it used to do.

Thinking it was the pump,I stripped the dryer down although i have not tested the pump,I saw on one of the circuit boards on of the resistors? had blown.

I have a multi meter but not sure if/how i can test the board to see if it is the culprit.

You can see from the photo,the other is where it is located in the dryer(front left top of the dryer,where all the electrics/boards are located.

Thanks guy's I hope i can get some help on this because I do not want to buy a new dryer.

Looks like a 110R resistor (same as the one above it). Obviously overheated, maybe not "blown".
Measure value with multimeter, and compare with the one above. Also, remove the relay cover, if you can without breaking it.
Then, post pictures of the top, and underside (track), of the board.

Make/model no of dryer would help too, someone may have, or be able to find, a schematic.

 

[IANB]

Not sure if the board is the problem but heres a link for a new board for about £14
Crosslee RELAY PCB MODULE 4213 078 57471 - 4213 078 54573 BAUMATIC BTD600 BOSCH CAPLE TDI100 CROSSLEE WHITE KNIGHT CL43 DIPLOMAT HJA8620.


It is the dryer start relay and if faulty the symtoms would be when you release the start button the dryer stops. Doesnt sound like your fault tbh

 

[easymo3]

Not sure if the board is the problem but heres a link for a new board for about £14
Crosslee RELAY PCB MODULE 4213 078 57471 - 4213 078 54573 BAUMATIC BTD600 BOSCH CAPLE TDI100 CROSSLEE WHITE KNIGHT CL43 DIPLOMAT HJA8620.

thanks for that,bosch want £42

 

[easymo3]

Looks like a 110R resistor (same as the one above it). Obviously overheated, maybe not "blown".
Measure value with multimeter, and compare with the one above. Also, remove the relay cover, if you can without breaking it.
Then, post pictures of the top, and underside (track), of the board.

Make/model no of dryer would help too, someone may have, or be able to find, a schematic.

thanks,i will take some more photo's asap and post them.

 

[easymo3]

Just put the multimeter on the resisters and i get ohm 16.72 @20k on both

I could not get the cover off without risking breaking it.

It is a bosch classix wtl6003GB

 

[IANB]

I think that board is working mate. Its a start relay board and if faulty the machine only runs when the start button is held in.
I think you need to try and test the feed to the pump and the pump tbh

 

[easymo3]

Not sure if the board is the problem but heres a link for a new board for about £14
Crosslee RELAY PCB MODULE 4213 078 57471 - 4213 078 54573 BAUMATIC BTD600 BOSCH CAPLE TDI100 CROSSLEE WHITE KNIGHT CL43 DIPLOMAT HJA8620.


It is the dryer start relay and if faulty the symtoms would be when you release the start button the dryer stops. Doesnt sound like your fault tbh

Hmm,the dryer would go for a few minutes and then seem to get stuck.(do not think the tumbler was turning,sounds like something was stuck)

I stopped it and restarted it,the same so i gave it a shake and it would go again.

 

[IANB]

Hmm,the dryer would go for a few minutes and then seem to get stuck.(do not think the tumbler was turning,sounds like something was stuck)

I stopped it and restarted it,the same so i gave it a shake and it would go again.

Hmm sounds like 2 faults the second being that board maybe. As for the water not being put in the collecting tray i have pm'd you a link to check out

 

[IANB]

You should tell if that board is faultyby holding in the start button and if it runs then stops when let go that board is faulty
Looking at the state of the resistor for £14 i would change it anyway even if the other problem is fixed

 

[easymo3]

I think that board is working mate. Its a start relay board and if faulty the machine only runs when the start button is held in.
I think you need to try and test the feed to the pump and the pump tbh

Back to where i started with the bloody thing,lol

I will update the thread as and when.

 

[danforth]

IANB obviously knows more than I do, but if you can solder, another resistor is only a few pence.

It may not be the only problem on the board, but if the relay is good, all the other components are readily available for £2-£3.

 

[danforth]

Just put the multimeter on the resisters and i get ohm 16.72 @20k on both

I could not get the cover off without risking breaking it.

It is a bosch classix wtl6003GB

Just caught up on this, sorry, was busy elsewhere.

The resistors are paralleled on the pcb, and without disconnecting one, you will get the same reading across each, even if one is open circuit.
The bands looked like brown, brown, brown, which is why I said 110 ohm originally.

If the bands were originally orange, orange, orange (and have changed colour due to overheating) each would be 33K.
Measurement in parallel would be half of that, roughly the value you are getting, which makes sense.

If you decide to replace, remove the burnt one, and measure the least likely affected (the one still on the board).
If it's 33K, then that's what you need to replace the burnt one. If the burnt one measures 33K as well (off the board),
it's not your problem, renew or replace, as you wish. As mentioned, the other components are cheap as well.

 

[easymo3]

Just caught up on this, sorry, was busy elsewhere.

The resistors are paralleled on the pcb, and without disconnecting one, you will get the same reading across each, even if one is open circuit.
The bands looked like brown, brown, brown, which is why I said 110 ohm originally.

If the bands were originally orange, orange, orange (and have changed colour due to overheating) each would be 33K.
Measurement in parallel would be half of that, roughly the value you are getting, which makes sense.

If you decide to replace, remove the burnt one, and measure the least likely affected (the one still on the board).
If it's 33K, then that's what you need to replace the burnt one. If the burnt one measures 33K as well (off the board),
it's not your problem, renew or replace, as you wish. As mentioned, the other components are cheap as well.

Thanks for your advise,the bands look like there are 4 bands altogether on both with 2 bands brown and 2 bands black.

Does that makes sense?

 

[danforth]

Thanks for your advise,the bands look like there are 4 bands altogether on both with 2 bands brown and 2 bands black.

Does that makes sense?

4 bands on each resistor. 3 bands closer together, 1 band further away.

The band further away indicates the % tolerance (plus or minus the marked value)

3 bands closer together indicate resistance value by colour. First 2 bands indicate first 2 digits, 3rd band is the "multiplier" (number of zeros to be added). Colours relate to numbers, black 0, brown 1, red 2, orange 3, yellow 4, green 5, blue 6, violet 7, grey 8, white 9.

Colours look different, depending on background, can change with heat, and sometimes look different on photos.
Just to confuse the issue further, the same code can be used on capacitors.

So, 4 bands, all brown, would be:- brown 1, brown, 1, brown 1 (0, multiplier), brown 1, % tolerance. Value is 110 ohm 1% tolerance.

And, if the bands were actually orange (but changed to brown by heat):-

Orange 3, orange 3, orange 3 (multiplier) value would be 3 3 000 or, as said 33K. Tolerance 3%.

Put "resistor colour code" into wiki, or similar, for explanation if above doesn't make sense to you.

Numbers and colours can be remembered with:-

Bye, Bye, Rosy, Off, You, Go, Birmingham, Via, Great, Western. First letters B,B,R,O,Y,G,B,V,G,W. remind the number order.

There are ruder versions which I won't go into !

While you're digesting that, will have a think about colours just given.

 

[danforth]

Had another look at the photos. If you're sure about brown and black (in whatever order) and they measure 16.72K, then definitely kaput.

If blown, maybe caused by the bridge rectifier, cheap as well, as is the electrolytic capacitor.

Try reversing the multimeter probes, to see if you get different readings each way.

Also, what's written on the blue capacitor ? And, what are you like with a soldering iron ?

 

[easymo3]

4 bands on each resistor. 3 bands closer together, 1 band further away.

The band further away indicates the % tolerance (plus or minus the marked value)

3 bands closer together indicate resistance value by colour. First 2 bands indicate first 2 digits, 3rd band is the "multiplier" (number of zeros to be added). Colours relate to numbers, black 0, brown 1, red 2, orange 3, yellow 4, green 5, blue 6, violet 7, grey 8, white 9.

Colours look different, depending on background, can change with heat, and sometimes look different on photos.
Just to confuse the issue further, the same code can be used on capacitors.

So, 4 bands, all brown, would be:- brown 1, brown, 1, brown 1 (0, multiplier), brown 1, % tolerance. Value is 110 ohm 1% tolerance.

And, if the bands were actually orange (but changed to brown by heat):-

Orange 3, orange 3, orange 3 (multiplier) value would be 3 3 000 or, as said 33K. Tolerance 3%.

Put "resistor colour code" into wiki, or similar, for explanation if above doesn't make sense to you.

Numbers and colours can be remembered with:-

Bye, Bye, Rosy, Off, You, Go, Birmingham, Via, Great, Western. First letters B,B,R,O,Y,G,B,V,G,W. remind the number order.

There are ruder versions which I won't go into !

While you're digesting that, will have a think about colours just given.

Stewth!!
gone a little dizzy trying to understand that,i think i wil leave electronics well alone.

Thanks for the info,but i think it has just gone straight through me without making any sense,i might have to read it again,again.........,again

I might get there in the end.

 

[easymo3]

Had another look at the photos. If you're sure about brown and black (in whatever order) and they measure 16.72K, then definitely kaput.

If blown, maybe caused by the bridge rectifier, cheap as well, as is the electrolytic capacitor.

Try reversing the multimeter probes, to see if you get different readings each way.

Also, what's written on the blue capacitor ? And, what are you like with a soldering iron ?

I am sure they are both black at one end of the band ,but not 100% about then middle bands because of scorching.
I get the same readings when i reverse the probes.
The blue cap says R4D 63V 10UF 85 celcius.
I could have a go at soldering,i have the gear but not much idea really,worth a try though,where is the best place to get the parts from?
would you just replace the 2 resistors?

 

[danforth]

Take your time, sounds/writes much harder than it is. Find something with pictures, easy to grasp then.

Point is, those resistors are duff, maybe caused by the bridge rectifier, all cheap.

Can you unsolder, solder, whatever needs changing, or know someone who can ?

Its basic to anyone with experience, the real problem will be finding the original value of the resistors.

Any voltage, or coil resistance, marked on the relay ? You mentioned a bosch replacement, any pictures on that to indicate resistor colours ?

 

[easymo3]

if i take the resistors out and take them to my local electronic engineer,would he be able to tell me the value?

or will the values be underneath the resistors,got to be worth a go thought.

the relay,i presume you mean the rectangle block?

G2R-1A-E 48VDC V-3 120VAC plus a few other figures with lines,dots etc