Soldering Iron Advice needed urgently

[JohnO1234]

Hi Guys,

I have been using a 15W from maplins, and it is feckin useless. I managed to get in a right tis while attempting a RGH on a slim. I now have a big blob of solder I cant melt to soak it up with wick.

So my question is for you guys, What is the best soldering Iron to use. I don't want a gas one lol.
Any links would be good?

Cheers,
JohnO

 

[JohnO1234]

I am such a div. I put it in the wrong section. Can a mod put it in the XBOX section please lmao...

 

[Spectre]

Depends on your budget really.

I like Weller stuff although I think the build quality has been in decline. I use a 45W weller TCP which have a decent range of tips for general work.

Oh, and I was lucky to get two MT1500 stations cheap although Weller has discontinued the bits . Shame as they are very nice.

 

[Oggy]

I too use a Weller, great irons, and mine's a cheap 'red' one which are the worst wellers lol.

Mine is a WHS-40.

Once I find a UK stockist of the discontinued WES51, I'm upgrading.

 

[dibbers]

...and also you using good flux and a good clean surface, preparing it ? i use a fiberglass pen etc. just ordered some new tips for me soldering iron and a small pot full of filings for cleaning, also ordered a
12ml Isopropanol Pen, and some good flux is a must....(i'd love a hot air soldering iron!!)

The primary purpose of flux is to prevent oxidation of the base and filler materials. Tin-lead solder, for example, attaches very well to copper, but poorly to the various oxides of copper, which form quickly at soldering temperatures. Flux is a substance which is nearly inert at room temperature, but which becomes strongly reducing at elevated temperatures, preventing the formation of metal oxides. Secondarily, flux acts as a wetting agent in the soldering process, reducing the surface tension of the molten solder and causing it to better wet out the parts to be joined. This will create a stronger fix as the solder gets further into the components to be soldered

Hope you get sorted bud.



NON-WETTING

This is due to the use of poor quality flux or flux not being used at all, a solid connection is not produced.

 

[Spectre]

For modchips and such I'd recommend lead solder as it flows a lot better than lead free.


Dibbers, I've got a Weller WHA300 hot air rework station . Yet again, another nice tool discontinued by Weller!

 

[Gwyn1]

For fine work I use an Antex CS18 and for medium size jobs, my old and trusted 25W Henley Solon - still going after 20years !!. I do grieve at paying £11.99 for three bits for the Antex, every couple of years, but it usually makes a nice clean job of any IC work I do.

 

[dibbers]

For modchips and such I'd recommend lead solder as it flows a lot better than lead free.


Dibbers, I've got a Weller WHA300 hot air rework station . Yet again, another nice tool discontinued by Weller!

I was so close to getting one and then i stopped it all, knocked it on the head... how ever, seen some lush ones, might of well been a weller, I dunno, just thought it was sexy as hell! lol.....i know, i know, it's an inanimate object but honestly some of them gave me the "pot noodle" they did! i often, just as i close my eyes, imagine me having one, holding it....ha! you get me? dam fine bits of kit!

lol....

 

[nozzer]

A 15W Iron is probably underpowered for anything but the smallest job. Any sizeable component or bit of copper is just going to suck the heat away from the tip.

Dunno why but Wellers have always felt 'clunky' to me. I much prefer the Antex SD50 with 690SD controller for most of my standard soldering jobs. Antex also do quite an amazing range of tips very cheaply.

For surface mount chips, a hot air smd rework station is the way to go.