...having read the earlier post (it would have been insensitive to comment there) just thought a few notes on smoke alarms.
I know you can get very cheap ones and they are better than nothing but...
Ideally, go for linked, mains-powered alarms with battery backup. They should be on a separate circuit and the alarm should be suited to the location. For example, optical alarms react to the sort of fires you get from soft furnishings such as chairs and sofas, ionisation alarms react best to fast burning fires. In kitchens you may be better off with a heat alarm as smoke is likely under normal conditions so a standard smoke alarm could be subject to false triggering.
The advantage of linked alarms is that they all go off whichever one detects the issue. They should be installed a minimum of 30cm from walls and light fittings to reduce the possibility of false triggering.
You should also give them a clean annually - a quick whizz over with the Hoover nozzle is usually all that is required and regularly press the test button.
Check the manufacturers guidelines for battery replacement and follow them (usually annually). Also, the alarm itself has a lifetime - replace according to manufacturer guidelines (usually 10 years).
Every room in the house should be close enough to an alarm to find the noise painful if they go off...by Building Regulations that's within 7.5 metres of every internal door. Ceiling mounted is best but wherever installed, avoid locations that are dusty, subject to condensation, radiators or other heating appliances etc.
Remember your local Fire Service will come out and offer advice and you may qualify for free fitting.
You can also check your local Building Control office for guidance notes - many are downloadable free.
You can also post questions on this thread and if I don't know the answer, I'll go find out for you.
You have no excuses now!
I know you can get very cheap ones and they are better than nothing but...
Ideally, go for linked, mains-powered alarms with battery backup. They should be on a separate circuit and the alarm should be suited to the location. For example, optical alarms react to the sort of fires you get from soft furnishings such as chairs and sofas, ionisation alarms react best to fast burning fires. In kitchens you may be better off with a heat alarm as smoke is likely under normal conditions so a standard smoke alarm could be subject to false triggering.
The advantage of linked alarms is that they all go off whichever one detects the issue. They should be installed a minimum of 30cm from walls and light fittings to reduce the possibility of false triggering.
You should also give them a clean annually - a quick whizz over with the Hoover nozzle is usually all that is required and regularly press the test button.
Check the manufacturers guidelines for battery replacement and follow them (usually annually). Also, the alarm itself has a lifetime - replace according to manufacturer guidelines (usually 10 years).
Every room in the house should be close enough to an alarm to find the noise painful if they go off...by Building Regulations that's within 7.5 metres of every internal door. Ceiling mounted is best but wherever installed, avoid locations that are dusty, subject to condensation, radiators or other heating appliances etc.
Remember your local Fire Service will come out and offer advice and you may qualify for free fitting.
You can also check your local Building Control office for guidance notes - many are downloadable free.
You can also post questions on this thread and if I don't know the answer, I'll go find out for you.
You have no excuses now!
