Radiator/Heating Repair Help!

[ManofScience]

Ok, sit down, long story here. Well, just to give you background.

I've got 2 leaking radiators, 1 in small bedroom and 1 in hall way - i guess i need to replace or repair the joints. It's from the thermostatic valve to where it connects to the pipe that screws into the bottom of the radiator. quite small diameter pipe and it's probably took a few knocks.

My boss said it's quite easy to do, find the drain pipe, stick a hose on it and drain the system. Repair/replace the bits, re-fill. Only problem is i just can't find the drain pipe/outlet at all. It's a oldish system, not a on-demand combi boiler but a hot water tank in loft (replaced in 2003). When heating on - water and rads on, when just hot water - just hot water gets hot.

I can only find the main cold water stop cock and there's a small red value near the base of the hot water tank in the loft - but it doesn't turn much.

So - what should i do?! the bedroom radiator is most pressing as it's leaking like mad. Can I turn the themostat off at 1 end closing the value and use pliers to turn the little valve at the other isolating that 1 radiator? and just drain that one?

if i have to drain the whole system i will but how?!

if i get a man in, how much would i be looking at? I'm awful at plumbing but skint too....

 

[wiz569]

Ok so if I am understanding you correctly you have a seperate Boiler and Hot water storage tank yes?

If so the first thing you need to do is trace where the cold feed into the heating system is,it will depend on whether its a sealed system or open vented one,

sealed systems are usually connected by a flexible/detachable hose connection and as such are usually off/disconnected unless the system needs a top up

open vented systems would usually have the cold feed joining into the system at the hot water storage tank,usually a 15mm copper feed,

you need to make sure this supply is turned off,there would usually be a red handled gate valve for this purpose although its not always apparent where it is,

once you have isolated the feed in you can then either find the drain off valve or crack open a fitting and release the water that way,

usually at this stage if there is no drain off valve I turn off both radiator valves and drain that rad then remove it and then use the rad valve to let the water out into a bucket slowly,

After thats all done just effect your repair and refill the system and bleed the rads.

 

[ManofScience]

Ok so if I am understanding you correctly you have a seperate Boiler and Hot water storage tank yes?

Yes mi old mucka

If so the first thing you need to do is trace where the cold feed into the heating system is,it will depend on whether its a sealed system or open vented one,

sealed systems are usually connected by a flexible/detachable hose connection and as such are usually off/disconnected unless the system needs a top up

open vented systems would usually have the cold feed joining into the system at the hot water storage tank,usually a 15mm copper feed,

i've seen that flexible pipe on my mother in laws combi and it's not on mine. That and the fact there is a red valve at the hot water tank points to it being a open vented system. ( i dont know what i'm talking about at this point but taking your estemed word for it!)

usually at this stage if there is no drain off valve I turn off both radiator valves and drain that rad then remove it and then use the rad valve to let the water out into a bucket slowly,

After thats all done just effect your repair and refill the system and bleed the rads.

This was sort of my half-ar$ed plan. The leak is on the rad side of the valve i'm guess i'll have no control over the flow once i take it off and it's going to shoot out!

Oh well. Can u get to Larne? i'll drive to stranraer and meet you off the ferry if i balls it up

Cheers for the help D, as always

 

[wiz569]

Well if it's on the Rad side you can just turn off both valves and then crack open the tailpiece connection and drain the rad that way,

If I really have to do it that way I just do it slowly and usually use a black plastic sack placed strategically lol,

Wouldn't mind a trip to Larne but I don't have a passport

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[ManofScience]

Can't get any worse i suppose, and i'd only have to pay someone anyways - i'm going to have a shot tomorrow - on a half day getting new telly delivered.

Thanks again

 

[Messa]

Can't get any worse i suppose, and i'd only have to pay someone anyways - i'm going to have a shot tomorrow - on a half day getting new telly delivered.

Thanks again

Turn off your cold water and open cold water sink tap to release pressure in cold feed.

If you have no drain cock then the best way is to find your lowest radiator (or one thats below your two leaks), turn off the locksheild valve (the screw one) and the thermostatic one at each end of the radiator.

The on the lockshield end put shit loads of towels down and get a bowl, tray, basically the biggest thing that will fit, under the valve.

Then carefully release the nut that holds the valve to the radiator but note you WILL get water squirting out at first as its under pressure.

This will drain the radiator down.

Once it has finished you can slowly open the lockshield valve and drain down the pipes, turning the valve off as you fill your bowl, pan etc and back on again to restart.

If you turn all the rad valves off around the house AT BOTH ENDS before doing this drain down it will cut down the time needed, as most of the water is in the rads not the pipes, shutting the valves stops them draining down.

It will take you a long time pal, but its controlled which is better than just releasing a pipe.

When its drained down then for fuks sake fit a valve with an integrated drain outlet !

 

[wiz569]

Turn off your cold water and open cold water sink tap to release pressure in cold feed.

This wont release the pressure in his cold feed to the boiler as it should be feed from a expansion tank in the loft if its an open vented system

 

[Messa]

This wont release the pressure in his cold feed to the boiler as it should be feed from a expansion tank in the loft if its an open vented system

Yes but what feeds the header tank that fills the CH system lol ?




My point is that you may as well get rid of the quantity of water left in the cold feed that will fill the system when you start to drain.

 

[wiz569]

But if you turn off the mains water supply there would be a negligible
amount of pressure in the supply pipe to the header tank to even give a thought to

Anyway I am sure he will manage fine without us arguing the toss lol
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[ManofScience]

I've took photos!!!

right, Pic 1 is the leak and where it is and pic 2 is the valve at the other end - however, i've tried to turn it this morning and it won't budge. Well, i tried quite hard but didn't want to knack something/make it worse. SHOULD it turn?

 

[wiz569]

Yes it should turn m8 providing its not seized lol,

If you can get an adjustable spanner on it and also a wrench around the body of the valve to hold against,it should go,bear in mind its clockwise to turn off

Just be very careful not to let the valve turn as it will put undue pressure on the small bore pipe and may kink it,

if you can get both valves turned off then its just a matter of draining the rad slowly and then redoing the tailpiece connection with either thread tape or boss white and flax (depending on the age of the plumber involved roud

Good Luck

 

[Messa]

But if you turn off the mains water supply there would be a negligible
amount of pressure in the supply pipe to the header tank to even give a thought to

Anyway I am sure he will manage fine without us arguing the toss lol
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Yer right pal

I've took photos!!!

right, Pic 1 is the leak and where it is and pic 2 is the valve at the other end - however, i've tried to turn it this morning and it won't budge. Well, i tried quite hard but didn't want to knack something/make it worse. SHOULD it turn?

Try undoing it slightly first pal, and I know this is obvious (actually it isn't !) but the nut on the left in the pic that you are saying is leaking tightens onto the valve, not the radiator, you are turning the correct way aren't you ?

So it your spanner was on the nut and pointing vertically up, you would pull it towards you to tighten.

As someone said above, please hold the valve steady with another adjustable coz if the nut suddenly spins, you may split the pipe and holy sh1t will break loose !



Is it deffo leaking from the pipe/nut and not the stem going into the radiator ?

 

[ManofScience]

the whole thermovalve thing is loose - it's defo where it connects to the pipe into the radiator, not where that screws into the radiator itself. I'll clean it up and some PTFE tape should work i think for that problem.

only problem now is i'm not sure if it's leaking from below the thermo one too i.e. the feed TO the thermovalve - drain the whole system time.

 

[wiz569]

I am not going to get into a debate over whose advice is better MoS so if you need any help you know where to find me

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[ManofScience]

i think the only issue here is which one of you is Mario and who is Luigi......

 

[Messa]

I am not going to get into a debate over whose advice is better MoS so if you need any help you know where to find me

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probably yours pal, just coz I like to be right doesnt mean I always am !

roud:

 

[wiz569]

Well the only thing I have going for me is the fact I am a qualified plumber,and most of your advice was spot on

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[ManofScience]

...UPDATE...

Put 2 spanners on the leaky end to see if i could tighten it abit as u guys suggested, it did and it stopped - Result!

That'll do me for now... i'm tempted to move house now before it goes again....

 

[wiz569]

...UPDATE...

Put 2 spanners on the leaky end to see if i could tighten it abit as u guys suggested, it did and it stopped - Result!

That'll do me for now... i'm tempted to move house now before it goes again....

Nice one m8,
sometimes the easier solution does work :Clap:

 

[dj_clubber]

I've took photos!!!

right, Pic 1 is the leak and where it is and pic 2 is the valve at the other end - however, i've tried to turn it this morning and it won't budge. Well, i tried quite hard but didn't want to knack something/make it worse. SHOULD it turn?

You need to turn both ends of the radiator off to stop circulation, then drain the water from the radiator or get two of you and disconnect the rad and put thumbs on each end and take radiator outside to drain. No water will circulate if you have the valves in the closed position. The leak looks as if it is coming from the joint joining the valve to the radiator. Just undo the joint and remove all PTFE off it, re PTFE with about 16 turns and reconnect to the radiator. Put valves back in place and open the valves to let the water in. Remember to vent off the air within the radiator by opening the bleed vent nipple on 1 of the ends. Job done. Do same with other radiator if similar leak.

The pipe work is 10mm microbore so be carefull when pulling about as not particular strong. If a small radiator, just use your thumbs on either end after disconnecting the compression nuts.

If the leak is coming from the pipe work before the valve, a draindown will have to be done in order to fix any leaks. Anything after the rad valve towards the radiator do as above.

Cheers.