Soldering / repairing string wire

[silverdale]

Firstly you need magnification of some sort, i've used Kynar wire and even Magnet wire or enameled wire off old transformers....Who remembers the first Wii Chips, then we after that we had to dremel the chip to access the pins/connections !! less than a mm !!

You can see the groove in the chip were i filed it down and non of the legs touch, those were the days money for old rope

 

[silverdale]

Now if I were really gonna show off I'd dig out the first enigma chip (50 odd wires) for the very first xbox and the early PS2. I'll swear to this day, it's still the best diet I've ever been on

 

[Spectre]

Epsilon modchip for PSP, FPC was keep moving in the socket after closing the case so I wired it all without using it. I think the wire to the PCB was 0.15mm or thereabouts.

I put some diagrams on here in 2007 in case anyone else wanted to fit one without the FPC but I think some software based hack had came out.

Those wires are attached to tracks with the solder resist removed, not test pads or vias.

 

[KhuramG]

Some of that slightly spongy potting compound comes off quite well but there's only one way to tell . Looks like you'd have to destroy the case on that ECU though.

I got myself another ECU with a matching key from eBay - there is method to program the keys on the bike itself so new blank keys and id46 transponders are on order - will let you all know how I get on.

I still want to have a go at repairing this one if I can - any tips on removing the compound? Is it careful heat or can I use anything else to help with the process?

 

[Spectre]

I got myself another ECU with a matching key from eBay - there is method to program the keys on the bike itself so new blank keys and id46 transponders are on order - will let you all know how I get on.

I still want to have a go at repairing this one if I can - any tips on removing the compound? Is it careful heat or can I use anything else to help with the process?

A hot air gun can soften the stuff but it depends on what it's like. Don't breathe too much of it .

Start at the edge and look for the edges of the PCB.

 

[KhuramG]

A hot air gun can soften the stuff but it depends on what it's like. Don't breathe too much of it .

Start at the edge and look for the edges of the PCB.

Cheers mate - will have a go

 

[silverdale]

Hairdryers are good for this as long as you don't have it on mega hot so it doesn't reflow solder. You need a mag headset and a fine scalpel and the patience of a saint heat pick heat pick heat pick. Don't rush it and if you get pee'd off put it down for another day. The key is sloooooooowly does it

 

[chookey]

If anyone has a hairdryer capable of reaching 188°C then you should bin it

 

[Seedy_r0m]

If anyone has a hairdryer capable of reaching 188°C then you should bin it

Or resell it as a paint stripper.

 

[silverdale]

If anyone has a hairdryer capable of reaching 188°C then you should bin it

Why the f 188c ?, some resins heatsink gunk will come away fine with far less heat than 188c, you need to be patient and take your time. I'm on about heating up then pick without destroying and reflowing everything else in and around the area. I've done a few before were eeproms covered in sh*te, one took 4 hours to get off and read. I would warm it up on full wack with me daughters hairdressing dryer then pick away with a fine stanley blade. The heat makes it that tiny bit pliable (loosens its grip) just enough so you can chip away at it bit by bit. Watch the eyeball flick when it comes loose , that fookin wrecks.

I've done a few, some you get with the hairdryer some you don't it just depends on what gunk your removing but the hairdryers my first port of call especially If the area's small and tight. I use to cover surrounding areas with tin foil so as to try and direct the heat precisely on the area and avoid any finicky caps around. Too much heat will toasty some of them for sure. With some I would use my rework or to be more precise I'd use my SolderPro 30 with hot air adapter. I don't know why but I always prefered the old SolderPro as I seemed to have more control over than a rework, I used it for donkeys before I bought a rework for doing atty's so I guess I'm just use to handling it and the heat it generates.


It's all about taking your time and having the patience of a saint, go in with the small artillery to start with then, if all else fails out comes the big guns