electrical genius needed

[mentholflash01]

hi all thanks for your help
but i have another router same model same revision can sumone tell me where to start cross referencing these 2 routers
thanks
ime looking to try to follow the dc track but ime only a hobist
did try lifting the 2 small smd's
tried quickchip and hot air but they wouldnt budge dont know why
any help will be very greatfully recieved
cheers

 

[r000t]

i just picked up a dlink dir 615 at a flea market for a few eur, and it turned out to have a similar fault.
(it's really a bad move on dlink's part to use a standard barrel jack connection for a 5V supply, and not include any protection circuitry...)
then i found this page as the first google hit for the number on the switching power regulator chip(s).
in my device, the regulator supplying 3.3 volts (closer to the edge of the board) is still working, the other is dead.

but i got the router it running again now!

i'd just like to point out that your idea of solving the problem by fixing the regulators is a bit silly... you are not going to get replacements for the chips if there isn't even a datasheet, and even then there might be other components of the power supplies broken, and you don't really want to solder such tiny parts...

the nice thing about power supplies is that there's really only two important parameters: the output voltage, and the current it can supply.
so there's absolutely no reason to fix the shot supplies, as it's far easier to just replace them altogether.

so what i did was, cut the connection between the regulator chip and the choke (this might not be required, but it's safer), and then connect another power supply providing the required voltage instead.

the only information i needed from this thread was that the power supplies likely supply 3.3 and 2.5 volts, so i needed to replace the 2.5 volts supplied by the shot regulator.

for now i'm using my adjustable bench power supply (nice to have), but it should be relatively easy to find one to install into the device.
the easiest/cheapest would be to stick in a simple linear regulator, just that those are not as efficient, and the power dissipation (heat!) might become a problem.
(the router is drawing 0.5amps from the 2.5v line.)
or find a switching supply that provides 3.3 and/or 2.5 volts (or maybe use 3.3 from any PC psu, and derive 2.5 from that using a low-drop linear regulator... endless possibilities there.)

 

[r000t]

getting back this this...

in the meantime, i implemented both fixes.

first, using a simple linear regulator.
an lm317, plus two 470 ohms resistors to adjust the output voltage to 2.5v.
this WORKS, but the power loss in the regulator is too high and it gets too hot:


and then the proper fix, using a switching power supply module that can be order for around 1usd from china.
(search for "KIS-3R33" on ebay), and a small potentiometer to adjust the output voltage to 2.5v:

 

[dibbers]

wow, this post was like 2010 when it started, did you just say "your getting back to this"...

I've had a quick read through the post, seems like you have it fixed.......good work I guess. I'll give you commitment that's for sure.

Now you have it fixed, what you going to do with it? like me, I'd probably put it away or pass it on/sell it.

 

[r000t]

it's it in the box that has "routers" written on it...
also, i fixed it back in 2011, just had not posted the pictures yet.

 

[Exos]

wow, this post was like 2010 when it started, did you just say "your getting back to this"..

He fell asleep shortly after the original post...

 

[MOAMB]

fookin hell iv just read this and didnt notice the date until Dibbers just said.
There was me goin to offer sending my spare router as its in cupboard gathering dust.

Guessing he already got a new one LMAO

 

[mojojek]

Hey r000t,

Could you show me pics in better quality to check where do I have to connect the wires? I need to replace 3.3V regulator. Where did You buy that switching power supply?

 

[r000t]

Could you show me pics in better quality to check where do I have to connect the wires? I need to replace 3.3V regulator.

when you already managed to find out which voltage is missing, you should already know where to connect it...
also, i replace the 2.5v in the board on the pictures.

otherwise:
the pictures i posted are quite large.
could it be that your problem actualy is that the forum software won't let you "download" the large versions of the images when you click the thumbnail?
ME NEITHER! even when i'm logged in?!
great forum... i guess i'll have to upload them somewhere else...
(will have to dig up the originals first)

Where did You buy that switching power supply?

i mentioned this in my post: ebay, KIS-3R33S, ten pieces eight bucks, note that the larger modules (sold in smaller quantities) likely won't fit inside the router's case case, but you can ofcourse re-use their componnts)

 

[mojojek]

Thanks for Your reply. I cant see the pictures because of some forum restrictions :/ I would be grateful if You upload the pics somewhere in the net.

Thanks

 

[mojojek]

This one will do the job ?
1pcs MP2307 3A DC DC Step Down Power Module Kis 3R33S | eBay

 

[r000t]

This one will do the job ?
1pcs MP2307 3A DC DC Step Down Power Module Kis 3R33S | eBay

yeah, same thing!
working on pictures...

 

[r000t]

pictures hosted externally:
fix with KIS-3R33S:
http://ihatemycomputer.yi.org/~r00t/dlink_dir-615_power_supply_fix.jpg

while you're waiting for the switching regulator to ship,
you might aswell try with a linear regulator first...
you can get that one from a local shop together with the potentiometer you need for adjusting the regulator.
there are be fixed 3.3v regulators available, so no need for the reistors.
it DOES work, but i wouldn't recommend it for long-term usage:
http://ihatemycomputer.yi.org/~r00t/dlink_dir-615_power_supply_fix_linear.jpg

 

[mojojek]

Thanks, thats exactly what I needed.
I found probably the reason of my regulator issues. Small capacitor marked on the photo is physically broken (chipped). I should have 3.3V but its only 0.2V (You can see that regulator got burnt)

http://images.tinypic.pl/i/00365/ufb79tooixow.jpg

I'll order KIS-3R33S and do it like You did. After using KIS there's no need to replace that broken capacitor (it will bypass the broken capacitor)?
How did You cut the regulator pins? I was thinking about unsoldering it.

 

[r000t]

Thanks, thats exactly what I needed.
I found probably the reason of my regulator issues. Small capacitor marked on the photo is physically broken (chipped). I should have 3.3V but its only 0.2V (You can see that regulator got burnt)

http://images.tinypic.pl/i/00365/ufb79tooixow.jpg

i'm pretty sure that the CAUSE of any issue with this router is ONE thing:
it has a standard barrel jack for the power input, but as soon as anybody plugs in a supply with more than the intended 5 volts, the regulators break.

I'll order KIS-3R33S and do it like You did. After using KIS there's no need to replace that broken capacitor (it will bypass the broken capacitor)?
How did You cut the regulator pins? I was thinking about unsoldering it.

the regulator module replaces the existing regulator circuit.
you should leave the original input and output buffer capacitors, but that's what happens when you use the connections on my picture and don't remove any parts.

it's best to disconnect the broken regulator's output, because it might interfere with the replacement regulator, but you might get away without.
(technically one should disconnect the input too, but i see no convenient way to do that, and it's not an issue unless the broken regulator draws much power (you would notice it shorting out the supply or getting warm))

i simple cut the trace with a knife, alternatively you might try to unsolder the choke (marked "3R4"), or simply break it off carefully, but i would recommend against trying to work on any of the existing parts, you're very likely to just cause more damage.
(the regulator chip is an smd part and plain impossible to unsolder without hot-air rework equipment or brute force)