Damaged LITE ON any hope ?

I might want to do that Oggy!

But, has this been tried I mean does it in fact work? I haven't yet heard of anyone actually getting that solution to work. I don't know if the 1319 is keyed to anything else on the board?

I don't think that actually moving of the chips would be anymore complicated then a TSOP (of course more pins) but if the chip is already blown then it is all for naught.
 
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Pictures of this damaged board if anyone wants to see what I was typing about.
 
l would say its fooked , putting the power in the wrong way around would fry everything l would think
 
Well I might try to power the 1319L directly and see what it does. After all I am assuming that the key exchange takes place long before it checks for drive open condition and so if it is still good the logic probe should show some activity on the TX/RX lines if I try to dump the key. If anyone could tell me the values of R710 and r709 that would help me a lot as I should try to rebuild the drive eject and status lines. A picture of an udamaged PCB boards back would help too. Because of the burning I can't tell exactly what the traces looked like when they emerged from the front side of the board.

Thanks
 
Well I wired the drive status and eject lines back up and supplied the missing 3.3v line to the back side of the board. These were all the burned traces and I do believe that this is the bulk of the damage.
The drive still doesn't work. However the center green light has stopped flashing so the 360 at least thinks the drive isn't ejecting all the time. the only thing I can think of is the MT is really dead or there is some trace I still missed.

I guess I am back to swapping the board and the integrated drive controller is my next option.
 
Resistors of R709/710 are 100 ohms in value.

It could still be ok, as the key is stored in a piggy backed SPi, so, decap 'could' be done.

Doubt you will find 'someone' with a programmer to read it and do anything with it though :)

Ive got plenty of spare LiteOn PCB's one needs a full trace repair but it seems you are not afraid of a bit of work.

Pad->IC leg should do the repair fine, I just havent had time, you can have that if you want?

You say about it all being for nothing, but, sureley its worth knowing???

Epoxy on these remove a piece of piss, in fact, no epoxy on my PCB mentioned above.
 
Thanks Oggy,

I just left out the resitors and wired it directly back to the power connector, but I don't think it would make any difference.
I was away for the weekend and couldn't reply earlier, but I would like that board if you are still offering it. The broken traces don't worry me.
I am reasonably sure that I have repaired all the damage on my board and that I am getting 3.3 volts to all the 1319's 3.3vcc pins. However I don't think I am getting the 1.8v so it is possible that one of the surface mounted regulators is gone.
Bottom line is that this drive seems totally dead. (I.E. If manually eject the tray and then powered up the 360, no DVD motor spin, no auto retract and no response from bouncing the eject line) so I am sure that key extraction is not possible in the current state. I did remove the epoxy (the white epoxy is much easier to remove than the black stuff) in preperation for trying to swap the chip to another board.
You are of course right, I will learn something from this :)
 
any updates ??

Did you get anywhere. i fried mine also and i want to know where you stand.
Did you try a MTK reader? would that help ?
 
Hi I got the same problem, until now after son check on the board I'm able to eject the tray and my computer still detecting the drive in sata port, i'll ready bridge r709 and r710, but still can't get the key, i have house made xtractor and used on other liteon drive succesfully, can gime some advice cause i can find a way out. Btw can someone post the MT1319L pinout cause i can't find in any place, thanks.
 
Yip if this is MX25/SPI chip I can read em. But you will loose the board and chip. (Well its most likely knackered anyway)

Just need the board and some time.

Oh and trust me i wont do a runner ;)

I think a reputable source will back me up. :thumbsup:
 
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Corrrect, you wouldnt, unfortunately it isnt just as simple as an MXIC Sparky

If only it was as simple as the BenQ you done ;) I have no doubts however, you possess the skills needed to remove the White epoxy around the MT1319L chip (easy) and swap it with a working drive to get key.

125 IC Legs I think, plausible?

Ive a dead PCB you can try and lift the chip from if you would like to try?.

Crack it, and you could be a very busy man if drives keep bricking through power problems.
 
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Ahh np my mistake i thought this was the same issue ie: benq.. Having said that it wont cause any harm on a dummy run with what you have, always up fer a challenge :Smokin:

Yup had a look at the chip and feel confident ;)
 
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I have a Lite On drive that keys can't be read from... I think the soldering killed it.

Strange thing is it plays Xbox 360 games, the 1319 chip gets extremely hot, but it works!

So I'm thinking that that there has to be a way to extract the keys from the chip itself.

Any thoughts?
 
anyone got any news on this or can anyone read the mt1319l chip i got one lifted what a bitch it was to get off
 
Its no good reading the MT1319L chip, you want the embedded SPi.

Ive not sent some drives to Sparky yet, bit busy.
 
any Updates on this? Has anyone tried putting the chip on a different controller???? im having the same problem and cant seem to figure out what to do.
 
im confident i could do the work, no idea if it works tho.
 
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