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Damaged LITE ON any hope ?

K

Kegg^UK

Inactive User
Just Thought i would ask

I have extracted and spoofed a couple of Lite-On drive no probs with soldering and Max232 method .

But unfortunatly i have stripped the track on the latest one and cant get it to work at all anyone help or know of an alternate solder point for the TX. This drive was very odd came back from MS today and only touched the points lightly with iron and the frazelled instanly !

Cheerz In Advance
 
Kegg^UK said:
Just Thought i would ask

I have extracted and spoofed a couple of Lite-On drive no probs with soldering and Max232 method .

But unfortunatly i have stripped the track on the latest one and cant get it to work at all anyone help or know of an alternate solder point for the TX. This drive was very odd came back from MS today and only touched the points lightly with iron and the frazelled instanly !

Cheerz In Advance
Click to expand...

i posted this in another forum for someone else .
solder links as shown in pic or just solder max 232 direct to the 4 points highlighted in the small blue box.

remember this is not a permanent fix but it will allow you to get all your details you need when reading the drive.
 
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Yeah have stripped those solder points too any one know if there are any other points

The drive is actually still working on original games but cant extract the Key
 
m8 listen to oggy ! this guy nos what hes talking about . he managed to fix one me and micky0908 thought we had totaly fooked . well done oggy top bloke :Clap:
 
Thanks, actually I just sent it to podger.

Easier for me, he wanted another spare drive.

I ask as its only a matter of time before the serial port gets blocked and no point attacking it with an iron if its a new revision.
 
Spill Oggy what ya know , ?? lol
Have ya seen a revision to the LiteOn that cant be read as easily ?
i had one back from repair early this week and one purchased from play that arrived on Monday
both read no problem @ all , i took no notice of the MT1319L chip

BTW Kegg^UK if you have toasted all the points of the top of the board there avil on the underside
if ya look @ the lower box in Oggys picky ya can see the points i refer to (but on the top) !!
they are also on the bottom Underside of the board ,
 
2primo said:
Spill Oggy what ya know , ?? lol
Have ya seen a revision to the LiteOn that cant be read as easily ?
i had one back from repair early this week and one purchased from play that arrived on Monday
both read no problem @ all , i took no notice of the MT1319L chip

BTW Kegg^UK if you have toasted all the points of the top of the board there avil on the underside
if ya look @ the lower box in Oggys picky ya can see the points i refer to (but on the top) !!
they are also on the bottom Underside of the board ,
Click to expand...


I know nothing, Im just assuming MS aint gonna take it lying down, and the 'quick fix' is to patch the serial port.

As this drive was hot back from MS when first posted - I figured this 'may' be a chance to see if they are/have decided to do it and are shipping.

If I knew anything, Id not be at liberty to say anyway - but....

I can honestly say I do not know of anything, Im making assumptions (there was one on X-S that couldnt be dumped on a seemingly good setup) - but, I certianly am not gonna offer advice on the matter if Im just gonna be ignored.

Ive spent countless hours on here helping, Ive asked one question and been ignored on it once for sure, and possibly a 2nd time.

The fact is, this drive could be patched, so I suggest BEFORE hitting it with an iron and fucking it up - he relays any info so someone who isnt gonna kill it can see.

The number on the MT1319L Chip could be an indication , Im clutching at straws, but this one is reportedly back from MS this week so Id like to know for future reference in case it crops up again.

Anyway, enough rambling - there is enough advice on this thread so it can be 'fixed'
 
Thx bud , Just wondering !
Have to agree thats a little rude not to even reply to a simple question my guess is that if the drive has been cooked with a big fat old iron it may require the skills of a more competent person to repair it i can surmise your reply to the Q can ya read this fooked drive for me plz bud hahahaha As i said i have had a few real recent boxes this week and have had no issues
thats a good thing as i purchsed a fair few drives so i have them around when i need them
Mind i paid less than a score each so even if it goes bent they will sell on egay

i will keep my eyes open and check the chip if i get one i cant read you be the 1st to know
 
Rite sorry for delay been at work

The guy has had his box back so cant get number from chip.

All i can say is i did 2 Lite-On on the same nite and this one fried the tracks as soon as i touch it with iron. I have also done 2 since with no probs so dont think its my soldering or equipment nothing was different.

It fried the tracks but did no damage to the drive ie it still play originals no prob so the guy who own box is going to trade it in at Game or simlar if i can get it back i will find info and photos of board.

More inof on the box though is it was an Elite which has been back to MS 3 times now once for HDMI fault and twice for RROD . 1st time sent back firmware was restored , 2nd time with flashed firmware and this 3rd time with flashed firmware. MS Kept machine for 3 weeks and told him they were replacing it and not sending his back to him and this is what arrieved.

Oh and i didnt know he was sending it back or i would have told him to have firmware restored. I was on Holiday when it died so he just sent it back

If i can get box back i will find info out on it .

thanks for the help
 
I was recently given a 360 with a damaged lite-on too. I can only assume that the dvd connector had been plugged in backwads as there was severe damage to the board. All the resistors in the eject and tx path are destroyed. Is there any hope that the MT1319l serial is still good? BTW I will break this up into several post so that I can meet the 5 post requirement and can download the JPG's in the previous posts. So forgive me if some of this is answered by these images.
 
Has anyone tried to move an MT1319L from a broken drive to a good new working drive just to retrieve the keys? Is there some reason (aside for the complexity of the soldering job) that this wouldn't work?
 
On the board I received the two lands (pads) below c01 and to the right of U7 (when cd tray is pointed toward you) have been totaly burned and therefor I assume that lower levels of the PCB have been damaged. Has anyone else had this damage?
 
This drive is a DG-16D2S of course, but it was manufactured September of 08. I have heard some debate about there being slightly different models of this drive. I haven't tried forcing the drive open and loading a disk yet, but from the damage on the drive I doubt it will work.
 
Okay as I thought it won't read the disk, won't spin up the or anything else. So I really need to look at thos jpeg's about alternative locations for picking up the serial data. However I don't think this drive is even being powered. I don't suppose anyone has made a rough schematic of this lite-on pcb ?
 
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l would think theres hundreds of the boards about , cant see any on fleebay .. but there must to be loads .. bet oggy has thousands of them to sell lol
 
I can get the MT1319L chip removed and used on another drive for you.

This might involve 'some' cost - not sure If podger can/will but TMF will.
 
I would be interested in one of them to try the 1319 switch and see if there is any joy. Oggy might you have one to play with?

Here is the history and my finding so far

I have gotten a message back from the person that destroyed this Xbox. They claim that they were not trying to read the key at all, but had only performed the 12v fan mod as their previous box had RROD and they thought this would help extend the life. This confirms what I had first thought, that all this damage is from the power connector that had been plugged in backwards.

I know this isn't a real help but the 1319 seems okay, I mean it isn't blistered or anything so even though 12 volts would have gone into pin 2 on the DVD which is the RX (I believe) of the 1319's serial port its serial interface might be okay.

The tiny traces from the power connector have lifted and burned away and the resistors blew. Checking for continuity shows that there is still a good connection from the R705 lower pad to the RX pin on the 1319 and from the lower pad of the R707 TX pad to the MT chip. This gives me hope that the voltage didn't make it past the resistors!
Hopefully the tiny traces and the resistors acted as fuses although slow ones.

The other overvoltage damage to the resistors came from the 12v that would have been applied to the tray status circuit on pin 4. It would have instead gotten 12v and blown more resistors and traces. In my opinion all these destroyed resistors and traces are likely to have saved the MT1319 tray sense or at the very least this part of the chip isn't needed to get the key and replace the drive.

However here is were I worry. There is the damage around C01 that has made a hole right through the board. It appears this is only a dual sided and not a layered PCB. This circuit appears to be from the application of +5v to pin 6. This should be the +3.3v pin and the circuit board has suffered from the extra 1.6 volts. This line goes to the back of the board and then feeds the MT1319. Exactly where I don't yet know as I haven't removed the epoxy yet to trace it out. At any rate this is the scary part. The +5 volts burned through the board because some component shunted it to ground. The question is how long could the MT take 5volts before it was fried? I would actually expect it to be able to take TTL levels for a short time and survive.

In the end this still leaves me with the same situation. I think I can desolder and resolder this chip to an undamaged board, but I am pretty sure this board is toast.

My only other option is to wire the +3.3v directly and skip the burned portion of the board. If I was very lucky this might power the MT1319L enough to get the key. This is the less preferred option as I think the chip swap has the best chance of working.

If I can get this one working maybe other (and I have seen others that had this issue) might benefit from my experimentation.
 
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