Condensation between panes in double glazing

Gavvodka

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alrighty -

Is this possible to fix yourself?

Can I take the pane out and replace or what.. does anyone have an idea of cost for this if I need to get it done professionaly?

Cheers
 
a house i had years ago had that on 3 windows
the building insurance didnt cover it due to ware and tare
the guy told me to hold a hairdryer on the windows which i did
a couple secs and they cracked.
which is covered by insurance.
i thought it was good of him to tell me
it cost me 50 pound excess ,but i gave him a score ,well worth it
mind you that was 15 years ago
 
Once the windows get condensation inside they are finished. But its very cheap and easy to replace them yourself. This summer I changed 8 windows of various sizes for £120 and it only took me a couple of hours. If you need any information on how you actualy do it just ask
Regards
Johnny
 
yeah how did you do this i have one with condensation in the master bed room
 
yeah how did you do this i have one with condensation in the master bed room

If you want a total guide, send digi a pm. He's a glazing expert too :)

I've done a couple of mine. Popped out the beading and measured the unit. Went to a local glazer and gave him the dimensions and he made me a new sealed unit. Popped out the beading again, slung out the misted unit, replaced with new and put the beading back. Job done in less than 10 minutes.
 
Once the seal is gone then the easiest thing to do is replace it. As a couple of people have mentioned its not expensive, the real cost of double glazing is the frames and fitting, so cost of actual glazing is not that high.

The only thing I would add to Tawke quick guide is make a note of where the packers are and how many. These are used to keep the window square and if you don't get it right then the window won't close properly.
 
Ok so it sound like I need to take the old unit out and replace it with a new one. Got a quote of £25 for a new unit and £60 installantion.

Reckon I could do it myself with a guide.. also the size of it, do I measure from the blackrubber seal that is on the unit or is it the glass only? also how the fook do I get the unit out.. it all looks sealed up to me?
 
to get it out, look at both sides, most windows are externally glazed, meaning the glass is fitted from the outside. first you remove the rubber from the inside, this keeps pressure on the glass and the external beading to stop it being removed. look at the corners of the rubber on the inside, and gently peel one up away from the frame, theyre wedge shaped under the frame. remove the rubber all the way round, and move to the outside. youll now be able to push the glass unit backwards. you may need a small flat blade to remove the bead, start in the center, but, if you push where it was touching the glass, youll notice a gap between the bead and the frame, this is where it comes apart,

!!! remove the top bead LAST!!!

as this stops the unit from falling onto you

youll notice that if its an opening window that opens sideways, there will be packers in opposite corners, this keeps the 'sahsh' square and stops it from jamming, youll need to replace these in the same way, otherwise youre fine to just pack the window for a drainage gap at the bottom

once you have access to the entire unit, you can measure its h x w

another thing to look at though is the edge, most units are 24mm wide, with 4mm glass, 16mm spacer and 4mm glass, youll probably be asked this when ordering a new unit

if you cant get it out, its normally the distance between the bead lines minus 5mm, but, iuf you mess this up, its an expensive mistake as youre left with a glass unit thats too big and the adjustment is too small to re cut the same unit

once you have the new unit, and the old one out, refit the beads (a good punch gets the last one in, bend the corners in and slam the middle with the edge of your hand) then go inside and refit the rubbers, if theyre tight, put some washing up liquid in your hand and run the rubber through it, take your time with this though, DONT slam the rubber in as you can crack the new unit, if it wont go with thumb pressure, pull it out a little and try again
 
If it is a normal window you just need to make sure the same packers are on the bottom, if it's a door or opening vent you will need to "toe and heel" the glass with the packers, this makes sure the weight of the glass is transfered onto the hinge otherwise the door/opener will drop and not close properly

http://www.askabuilder.co.uk/how-to/toe-and-heel.html

Just to note, if the windows are within 5 or 6 years old chances are the beads will be inside, almost all new windows have the beading inside to stop burglars doing what your about to do :)

good luck mate, it's really not that difficult ;)
 
Just to note, if the windows are within 5 or 6 years old chances are the beads will be inside, almost all new windows have the beading inside to stop burglars doing what your about to do :)

I thought the rubber strip which is on the inside keep the pressure on the beading making it impossible to remove ? If the rubber strip is on the outside then can't they just remove the strip ?
 
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