rrod fix + hot air guns etc.....questions :)

Midnight Tboy

Midnight Tboy

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Yellos,

right....so I have a jtagged box (whoooohooooo) that I did with my old old banned console.

I'm always living in fear that its going to die :)

Anyways, I've just bought off ebay and picked up a rrod box that I'm hopeful is going to be jtaggable.....a 2005 console....looks like its had a repair done by MS (seal intact..no major marks....and the gpu heatsink has that secondary heatsink to the right of the dvd drive...which if I remember right didnt come with consoles from that age??)

I've checked the console and its a 0102 error.

Now I've only attempted one rrod fix in the past which failed miserably months ago.....as it had been openened and previously xclamped and bodged to bits...for a friend of a friend.

I want to be sure that I order the right bits......

Now I plan to do the heatgun method.....so looking around for the various different guides and tutorials etc....

1. Is it worth doing the whole covering the board with lots of blu-tac and tin foil? Also saw another vid where had cardboard covering the gpu area in a tube to concentrate on that part while protecting outside area.

2. Which heatgun would be best? a 2000w operating at 350C and 600C, or a 1500w operating at 300C and 500C?

3. Take heatsinks off during air gunning? I'm guessing thats a yes?

4. Obviously its worth changing the paste on the cpu and gpu..now is it worth getting Arctic Cooling MX-2 over Arctic Silver as heard its meant to be better? Also does anyone have any pics of just how thin the layer should be.....should you still be able to see through it when applied? Also do you apply paste to the other little chips that are under the heatsink areas?

5. Since I plan on doing hot air gun fix....is it still worth me replacing the xclamps with washers and bolts as per the typical xclamp repair kits sold on ebay?

6. If #5 is a yes......then whats the best option.....nylon washers...or sprung washers...for the underside of the board. I keep hearing conflicting info about the sprung washers. Websites I found in past (and sellers) say sprung better than nylon as the nylon don't last....others say dont touch the sprung washers as they'll dig into the motherboard and do way more permanent damage? Is there any now thats regarded as THE BEST guide above all others?

hope yas can help.

Itching to get this repaired (not looking forward to it though - but thats probably after having that disheartening failed attempt months back - but that was a no-go from the start).
 
Yellos,

right....so I have a jtagged box (whoooohooooo) that I did with my old old banned console.

I'm always living in fear that its going to die :)

Anyways, I've just bought off ebay and picked up a rrod box that I'm hopeful is going to be jtaggable.....a 2005 console....looks like its had a repair done by MS (seal intact..no major marks....and the gpu heatsink has that secondary heatsink to the right of the dvd drive...which if I remember right didnt come with consoles from that age??)

I've checked the console and its a 0102 error.

Now I've only attempted one rrod fix in the past which failed miserably months ago.....as it had been openened and previously xclamped and bodged to bits...for a friend of a friend.

I want to be sure that I order the right bits......

Now I plan to do the heatgun method.....so looking around for the various different guides and tutorials etc....

1. Is it worth doing the whole covering the board with lots of blu-tac and tin foil? Also saw another vid where had cardboard covering the gpu area in a tube to concentrate on that part while protecting outside area.

i just concentrate on the gpu and the cpu of course not keeping the heat gun in one place for more than a couple of seconds and blast the bottom of the board where the CPU and the GPU sits then flip the board over and do the chips on the top of the board. i do 4 minutes each side...

2. Which heatgun would be best? a 2000w operating at 350C and 600C, or a 1500w operating at 300C and 500C?

As long as the heat gun starts to burn a line on paper then it's hot enough, i have mine on setting number one

3. Take heatsinks off during air gunning? I'm guessing thats a yes?

yesum

4. Obviously its worth changing the paste on the cpu and gpu..now is it worth getting Arctic Cooling MX-2 over Arctic Silver as heard its meant to be better? Also does anyone have any pics of just how thin the layer should be.....should you still be able to see through it when applied? Also do you apply paste to the other little chips that are under the heatsink areas?

yes defo get the arctic stuff, all the boxes tat have failed in the past i used shitty paste and now i have the arctic pastes i've seen better results. just make it a thin spreading i would say not see through it when it's applied that's a little too thin, it's kinda sticky any way so it's kind of thick if you know what i mean.

5. Since I plan on doing hot air gun fix....is it still worth me replacing the xclamps with washers and bolts as per the typical xclamp repair kits sold on ebay?

i do but some people just use the orginal xbox clamps but we all know how crap them one's are but after a proper heat re balling then they would work but for use with a heat gun the best one's ive seen are the ones that have the nylon washers and yes i swear by them, stop the chips shorting the board out.

6. If #5 is a yes......then whats the best option.....nylon washers...or sprung washers...for the underside of the board. I keep hearing conflicting info about the sprung washers. Websites I found in past (and sellers) say sprung better than nylon as the nylon don't last....others say dont touch the sprung washers as they'll dig into the motherboard and do way more permanent damage? Is there any now thats regarded as THE BEST guide above all others?

I keep hearing conflicting info about the sprung washers.yes you will, me mate hates them but i love them! as long as you have the spring washers to keep tension on the baord.


hope yas can help.

Itching to get this repaired (not looking forward to it though - but thats probably after having that disheartening failed attempt months back - but that was a no-go from the start).

have a look at the other thread on heatgun fix that has about 3 pages in....

i have a box that i'm going to do my self but for now have a new kitchen and a full rewire to do so going to be a week or so before i can get the chance to do it, if that fails then i will be using the flux on it!

Good Luck
 
cheers again Dibbers.

i've bought some liquid flux (brave :D)

and some AS5 with Arcticlean. Someone on x-s also recommended using isopropyl alcohol and flushing it below the cpu and gpu BEFORE using the no clean flux. He wasn't too keen on hot air guns tho lol - but I can't afford a rework station :) (nor would I know how to use on - only seen a picture :p)

I've also opted for a 2000w gun - mostly cos it was a little bit cheaper :)

Can't decide whether to buy the rrod fix kit (without paste - or bin the paste lol) - or to keep the xclamps on.

Any links to a specific seller/kit - that you've tended to buy? I've seen a few pics of where the springers have screwed right into the mobo mind - so a bit concerned about doing that....any better way to protect the mobo from the sharp end of the springer? :)
 
I know everyone will be doing them different and the out come will be the same i guess as we all learn new tricks and tips from everyone doing them.

I'm no pro but as time seems to be going on i'm either getting lucky with the fixes are i'm doing something right (hope i aint jinxed me self like)

Forgot to mention AS5 with Arcticlean that's what i have and it's mint after all you got to see your face in the reflextion.

It's not just a workstation that you'd have to have the skillz on it's the resoldering of the chips (reballing) the work station basicly heats the chip up to the correct temprature so it can be removed and then you need to reflow the board and the chip....class! if only i had the blinkers for it!

i allways put a new RROD x-clamp kit on but don't by one with the paste as i have some of that arctic silver which is the dogs me thinks.....

this is the kit i use KIT HERE

How ever some people cringe at the thought of the plastic washers but it's the only kit along with the above that i've had success on really.....
 
if you use that same kit all the time, and bin the paste, wouldnt it be cheaper to buy the screws, washers etc from screwfix? youd probably get 500 of each for about £13

ive ordered a kit just to see whats in there lol
 
yesum correct! but every box i do i say it's me last one and then run out of screws! lol...so order another kit!
 
We used to have a thread here started by English, RRoD bulk parts or something, i got tons of washers and cheasescrews or something lol, dunno if anyone can find it.
 
cheers - having a read through now :)

would probably make sense to buy just the bolts etc needed - though dont think I'd need 20quids worth :)

wonder if you can get hold of the exact bits easy enough in a b&q? tho rip off prices usually there - maybe fine for a single set here and there
 
i only bought one kit and said the last box was me last one and then and went and bought one kit and said the last box was me last one and then and went and bought one kit and said the last box was me last one and then and went and ....


you get me....
 
Guys, Know this is a bit O/T but I got my 360 reballed and reflowed today. This was a box that was bought off fleebay and had its xclamps removed already. The guy usually puts the XClamps back on after he reballs and reflows but he said he didnt have any so he put the metal and nylon washers back on. He says if I buy some more XClamps and go back he will put them on for me but is it worth it if they cause the issue in the first place? Or am i better sticking to the nylon and metal washers.

Any opinions would be much appreciated.
 
if it's been reballed....like proper reballed then any clamp will do as the box is back to the orginal state.... how ever some claim a reball is a heat gun.....

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIwNSBtQKUw[/ame]
 
well had a read through that other thread. Think the general concensus is possibly that its best to try doing the air gun fix and keep the same xclamps on - then dont have to worry about it being right heights etc so less potential issues.....
so think i'm gonna go for not buying the rrod kits yet and just keep the xclamps on (I've got the AS5 and arcticlean and liquid flux etc on order tho as obv change them)

Just deciding whether its worth getting all the blutack now and covering the capacitors etc - tho will firstly concentrate primarily on the gpu (tho read its recommended to warm up the whole mobo first a bit to prevent any serious warping from it being in a concentrated area.

Quick question......

the ebay hot air gun I ordered comes with some nozzles .....are you guys using any of the nozzles to concentrate the area? or using it with none?
 
I'm not using any nozzles, and I'd defo recommend a x-clamp kit...after all the whole reason that they fail for is due to the shitty x-clamps that m$ put on...least the x-clamps will keep the pressure on.......

i heat gun the bottom of the board for 4 minutes....concentrating on the gpu and the cpu, flip it and then do the same but on the main side no point heating capacitors so concentrate on the chips...
 
I always thought that (computer chips) + (enough heat to make smoke) = trouble. repect to anyone who gets this to work, does not look easy.
 
it's not smoke it's the vapours of the solder/flux that you see...
 
Hi Dibbers,

It was a proper reball i.e. lifting the chip and putting it back on. I'll see what comes of it then. He's given me a month to return it free of charge should it go wrong again so Im gonna stress test it from now and see if it goes.
 
Midnight Tboy said:
cheers - having a read through now :)

would probably make sense to buy just the bolts etc needed - though dont think I'd need 20quids worth :)

wonder if you can get hold of the exact bits easy enough in a b&q? tho rip off prices usually there - maybe fine for a single set here and there
Click to expand...
Just repaired 2 rrods' but I use this guy. Saves me going out my way and the stuff arrives the next morning.
He doesn't supply heatsink compound but I have enough of my own anyway.

Really not too expensive either.

BULK Xbox 360 Repair Kit RROD 3 Red Lights Xclamp Fix on eBay (end time 28-Feb-10 12:25:49 GMT).

Chookey
 
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