Tips on 2nd hand car buying

fus10n

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I'm looking for a car priced between 500-1000 quid. I'm hoping to find one with at least 10 months MOT, cheap to insure/tax and run. What things should I look out for when viewing a potential candidate? I'm no car expert, i know about tyre depth and the general stuff most people should know like tyre changing etc, but I'm no mechanic or car nut.
 
I think one of the most important things is to suss out the seller. In that price range you are going to get a lot of wheeler-dealers who have picked up trade-ins from a dealer or auction & tarted them up to look and run just well enough to sell. The "red light guarantee" applies - one the red light goes round the corner, that's your guarantee up!
Things like freshly-painted panels might hint that the car's been in a bump - not necessarily a bad thing if it was a light knock but it could be hiding something more sinister if the car's been in a smash.
It's always a good idea to take off the oil & water filler caps, the oil one should have a film of black oil on the underside and no white frothy stuff and the water one should not look a rusty colour. Look underneath the engine & gearbox for damp patches, check the clutch pedal doesn't feel 'heavy' or brake pedal spongy.
Ask to see the V5 and check that it's registered to the address and person who is trying to sell it. If they don't match it's not necessarily stolen but might indicate that the seller has just bought it to sell on.
Ask if they know the radio code and if there is a security wheel nut key. Service history is always good but seldom comes with cars in this price range.
If you get lucky you'll hopefully find a genuine family car that's due for upgrade & they just want to avoid being ripped off by WeBuyAnyCar or the likes.
 
Went to see a car today. I had already checked the dvla for the mot details and it had an advisory for the rear tyre. The guy was possibly in his 50's but he lied when he said he had no advisories when he had his MOT done on the 21st of march...i mean the tyre is cracked like they have hit the curb. Other than that it started up perfectly a little rust here and there but nothing major or around the wheel arches.
 
Can there be fake mot as we had an smax 2.0 petrol in 2008 which passed nct by a blind tester and it came into us for a service and what a joke.
Exhaust flexy gone and rest of exhaust rotten at hangers and blowing.
Right hand handbrake at rear caliper fraying and tight wheel rotation.
Some dip shit tried to mig/tig weld wrong size size wheel stud into rear wheel flange=needs a new flange as not sold wheel studs.
Car has odd size wheel nuts 21 and 19mm 😄
Speedo went blank as nothing visible and fixed by removing and cleaning contacts.

I would also look at smoke coming out of rear exhaust as it could be an oil burner when starting up from cold and during a run.
Stick up a post of car seen that your thinking of buying for known issues.
 
I think trevs covered some really good points there. If your buying private I personally think alot can be read into they way the seller interacts with you. You kinda a get a feel whether he's been open and honest or he's hiding something.

I got a little 2002 Corsa 1.4 tie me over for £500 but, the old guy had receipts for £400 of recent work. I wasn't sure if they were gen as they were kinda scribbled hand written with a stamp so I rang the garage just to make sure they did the work and he confirmed it.
The best way if your unsure is to draw up a list of things to check "what to look out for":-
or take someone who knows cars to give it the basic once over.
To be honest, in that £500-£1000 bracket it's a gamble. In my time I've had cars in the 5k bracket go t*ts up within weeks of ownership. If you do your checks and something comes up and your not sure simply walk away, 2nd hand cars are 10 a penny there'll always be another.

Good luck I hope you get sorted
 
I think trevs covered some really good points there. If your buying private I personally think alot can be read into they way the seller interacts with you. You kinda a get a feel whether he's been open and honest or he's hiding something.

I got a little 2002 Corsa 1.4 tie me over for £500 but, the old guy had receipts for £400 of recent work. I wasn't sure if they were gen as they were kinda scribbled hand written with a stamp so I rang the garage just to make sure they did the work and he confirmed it.
The best way if your unsure is to draw up a list of things to check "what to look out for":-
or take someone who knows cars to give it the basic once over.
To be honest, in that £500-£1000 bracket it's a gamble. In my time I've had cars in the 5k bracket go t*ts up within weeks of ownership. If you do your checks and something comes up and your not sure simply walk away, 2nd hand cars are 10 a penny there'll always be another.

Good luck I hope you get sorted


I'm gonna offer him £100 lower than he wanted, the tyre does need replacing imo. He'll either be offended or haggle...
 
Knowing what you buy can be important as only spent e500 on a jap import many years ago and in a few months it will be a classic 30 year old and built to last.
 
Whats best insurance wise? Fully comp or just third party fire and theft for a cheap car?
 
The way things are at the moment with idiots on the road and fraud I'd personally wouldn't consider 3rd party F&T, it's just not worth it. It was fine in my day but then again no one ever nicked a horse :)

Best way, pick your model/s of car and try to keep it 2 types max 3. Only search for them or you will get side tracked. Just keep comparing prices all over the net then eventually you will get an average feel for a price i.e.. year , mileage, engine. One always outweighs the other so say a cars a 05 plate 120,000 for £750 then an 05 plate with 40,000 might be £1500 depending on the overall in out condition.
Like I said, go through a few hundred and get a feel. If a cars got super low mileage for an older car don't be put off straight away. If could be an old couple or a second school run local commuter car.
My m8 just picked up a C-Max 1.8 12 plate £3000 35,000. Car was a school run car. Few sweets pop spills but nothing a good valeting cant fix. He did 2 weeks of searching till he dropped on
 
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