Diffirence Between LED SIMMS

essexgirl

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Hi guys, i bought one of the led simms with switch off ebay. Then when i took a look at the tutorial for it i realised the one in the tut has a toggle switch. One i bought is a push button switch. If there is an alternative method of using the push button one i would really appreciate some advice on it. If there is no alternative method and it is used same as the toggle switch then cool. I guess it will work same way if the centre point of the toggle switch is OFF. I guess left and right will be for details reading as would the in/out of the push button. Hope u guys understand my question and hope u can help and clear my confusion up.

essexgirl
 
hi
my advice would be to sell it back on ebay and buy the no soldering 1 from tmc
regards
 
This one will give you your box key so thats all you need as your ird should be on the scart, double check it in the engineer menu just incase.
 
L33tpL4y4 said:
This one will give you your box key so thats all you need as your ird should be on the scart, double check it in the engineer menu just incase.
OK thanx L33tpL4y4. Can you please help me out here then bud with the basic on the diffirence in using it. As in 1. What mode switch would be when off and 2. switch on? I gather it would be 1st part and 2nd part of bk then. A bit unsure tho. Guy sold it as "Allows you to obtain BK & IRD information from digital receivers" so if it doesnt obtain IRD as stated in the item add then good enough reason to send it back for refund. Mis-leading?
 
Yes , totally misleading, it doesn't read the IRD....neither does the solderless one from TMC so there's no way of knowing if your BK readings are "valid", i.e you have a bad connection somewhere...
 
the 1 with the red button needs a solder mod doing on the underside you have to push the button in and up for a sertain part of the bk or ird unsure as i neva got this sorted you could do with changeing the switch as the red button is a bit tempramentle
regards
 
mentholflash01 said:
the 1 with the red button needs a solder mod doing on the underside you have to push the button in and up for a sertain part of the bk or ird unsure as i neva got this sorted you could do with changeing the switch as the red button is a bit tempramentle
regards

I have one of the red button simms (wish I'd never seen it) and can't get a meaningful bk out of it, what solder mod needs to be done to the board m8.

TIA

_Phat_
 
_Phat_ said:
I have one of the red button simms (wish I'd never seen it) and can't get a meaningful bk out of it, what solder mod needs to be done to the board m8.

TIA

_Phat_
Yeh im in same boat phat. I need some info/advise on using this damn thing. How can these people sell them then we find out their basically not worth a f**k lol. Our own fault for not doing more research before buying it. But that doesnt help us any further forward i know. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE can somebody shed some light on using this damn led simm. THE ONE WITH THE BUTTON. Is the solder mod same as one in the original tut using the simm with the other switch? reason why i got this is because that MCDESK i normally use from TMC is a fking nightmare ( you know who i am mashy ). Returned it twice to you. Came back still f**ked. 2nd time it came back things look normal when u check firmware etc now BUT it does fk all. Cannot read/write etc to anything. Cards work ok. Now am stuck with a moaning cousin coz her box packed in n a cant do another one for her until i get this led simm info i need.
 
I tried to use it with the solder mods that are used with Atmelace's simm but it just gives all red led's.
Use it on it's own and it gives you a reading but like no boxkey I have ever seen, if you fart around with the button a bit it does give you a third reading but nothing like an IRD of any sort.
It's f00kin tripe I'm gonna order one from TMC and have done with it did you try mailing the guy you bought it off....I did waste of time :(
 
AtmelAce said:
Yes , totally misleading, it doesn't read the IRD....neither does the solderless one from TMC so there's no way of knowing if your BK readings are "valid", i.e you have a bad connection somewhere...

where does the bad connection come in to effect for the solderless one.

tmc
 
tmc said:
where does the bad connection come in to effect for the solderless one.

tmc

we all know the simm sockets are crappy and bad connections are common place. still ordered a tmc simm to put in my arsenal.LOL:Jester:
 
I have not long got one off AtmelAce and can say that i wouldent by any other as after having a read and trying it out its magic works brill and had no problems arso doss the ird as well , the solder bit is very easy to do as well. The only time is taking the box to bits to do the solder job.
After looking at the pics of the solderless one i can say that to me it dosent look as if its made as well as AtmelAce's, ide say by of him as the work is first class.

Cheers.
 
can somebody point me in the right direction of the atmelace tut then?
 
If you do the wiring right, that red push button job should give you a BK. wether it is correct is another matter as you have no way of making a reference to IRD ( AFAIK).
TMC - see TwoBeers comments.... Bad simm socket = Bad readings, whatever method you use.....
 
I bought one of the dodgy red button simms of ebay a while back. Although they are very tempermental you can actually get the IRD and BK with them.
The red button/switch has three positions, left, right and a dodgy inbetween position which is pretty hard to find. You find if you keep moving the button diferent ways while watching the leds there are actually three different displays.
I found if you kind of tapped the button you could find it ( it tends to flick in and out of this setting but persevere) this is the ird. Once you find this position and verify its correct by checking the display against the sticker on the scart, you can get your bk.
Then you just have the left and right positions for the two halves of the bk. Theres only two ways they can be entered so a bit of trial and error is need here.
(I actually entered them the wrong way round the first time and the card status showed as ok in the EM but couldnt get any channels)
 
I bought an led simm off atmelace several months back, I had problems reading the IRD and BK at first but after fiddling around with my dodgy soldering and pushing the simm firmly into the slot I got a perfect reading.

Finally managed to make an AU card... which to my knowledge don't work anymore, atleast i still have my fun 4 :D
 
red push buttoN led simm

OK thanx for the info guys but i already got that tut which is for the toggle 3 way switch. it still doesnt shed any light on what settings to use with the push button led simm i have tho. my apologies for not making it clear the tut im after id for the push button simm. or if somebody can give me some info on the readings obtained by the button being pressed and not being pressed once inserted into as box and switched on. The confusion persists........
 
I also have one of these. Had no time over the weekend to try it out - so i will see when i get home how this "in between" button works for IRD to make sure the connections are good.

I can solder fine - but i heard you can use bluetac to make the connections - what is the deal with that ?

Sorted,

PS: See with the TMS and the Red Push Button - why does it say plug and play - when you still have to solder the underneath points on the board ? Or do u not ?
 
Last edited:
AtmelAce said:
If you do the wiring right, that red push button job should give you a BK. wether it is correct is another matter as you have no way of making a reference to IRD ( AFAIK).
TMC - see TwoBeers comments.... Bad simm socket = Bad readings, whatever method you use.....

Neither TMC's or Atmelace's led simms will give you perfect results 100% of the time. It is, as has been said by TBC dependent on the simm socket. I have one from Atmelace that has given me perfect results on some boxes, where another box will resemble a rope light.
I use a dodgy simm that I have wired up for the voltmeter method as a backup in these cases.
Unfortunately, you cannot always use the reading of the ird as proof that you are going to get the true bk. The digit or two that aren't lighting due to poor contact may be zeros in the ird.
It would make good practice also to wiggle the led simm and jot down any difference in the reading, cos one of them will be right. Then try them out on a fun b4 putting them to mosc/opus.(got caught out on this last week)
I would ditch the red pushbutton model, put it down to experience and buy one from TMC or Atmelace. If you are ok with soldering then go for the original one, otherwise go for the plug and play.

Regards...........Chookey​
 
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