Samsung le40r88bd problem

scott-ayling

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Hopefully someone can help me with the problem I am experiencing. I believe digidude is good with fixing tvs. I had the dreaded tv not starting and clicking noise. So I replaced the burst and swollen caps. Tv still wouldn't turn on so I shorted pin 5 and 6 on EEPROM but couldn't get in service menu a nothing appears on screen. I can now turn tv on and off and no clicking just can get a picture. I also can get sound when hdmi connected but still no picture. Is it my main av bird still power board dodgy or something different.
 
Replace the eprom with a blank one and check screen settings, better still take it to your local independent television engineer ;)
 
Think I might have to to engineer or just scrap it. Changed tconn board still same, bought a new main board but I thought it was the same but one connector is different
 
You've spent too much on it just to scrap it mate.
Parker13 gave you the answer. A common fault on this series of sets is corrupt eeprom following the demise of the caps on the smps board.

Usually fitting a blank one will let the set fire up with picture. It uses an Atmel 24C256BN, the same chip we used to reprogramme on the 8300HD cable boxes.
Just in case you need it I have attached the eeprom dump for your model.
 

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  • SAMSUNG LCD TV LE40R88BDX XEU EEPROM DATA. SIGNAL PCB BN94-01472M.rar
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Glad I never gave up , used a heat gun to take of EPROM from the board I bought and put it on my original board and tv fired up, thanks guys for the help
 
Hi everybody . Samsung le40r88 , was problems with the power supply, now turn on but no picture, on the remote control not respond. I think fault eeprom
 
I am also having no start continous clicking cycling with my Samsung LE40R88BD TV. The set had this problem many years ago too and was then repaired under warranty. Have been inside TV and found that two caps were replaced on power board and EEPROM replaced on main board. Have tested ESR on all caps on power board and found them to be good. Voltages are also good. Now considering replacing EEPROM but think I need EEPROM dump file. Can anoyone help with that. I am new member and see I must make five posts before I can download anything from here.

Just tried the EEPROM reset suggested here by soldering in a cable to pins 5 & 6, turn on TV and cut cable after a few seconds. Regrettably no success as TV keeps cycling and clicking like before.

Does a new EEPROM need to be flashed with the appropriate dump file or will a blank EEPROM work without once installed?

Finally having enjoyed a few drams of Lidl Queen Margot whisky, got brave enough to desolder EEPROM and fit a brand new blank one.
 
With the blank EEPROM I managed to get the TV into service mode and finally got all channels, picture and sound.

The only problem is when I turn TV off I can only get it to work by again entering service mode. The TV does not appear to save its settings.
 
Thanks for your advice. I never thought of reading the manual as I am male and en engineer.
 
Thanks for your advice. I never thought of reading the manual as I am male and en engineer.

Really?? What sort of engineer?? Definitely no tv engineer

Does a new EEPROM need to be flashed with the appropriate dump file or will a blank EEPROM work without once installed?

Finally having enjoyed a few drams of Lidl Queen Margot whisky, got brave enough to desolder EEPROM and fit a brand new blank one.
 
A proper engineer not a technician but you are right I am no TV engineer although I have fixed a few TVs in my time.
Yet here you are asking us lowly technicians for advice.

Me: "Really?? What sort of engineer?? "
You: "A proper engineer"

Why is my bullshit warning system still active?
 
I am neither technician nor engineer when it comes to repairing TVs and electronics but usually pretty good with mechanical things and structures.
 
I am neither technician nor engineer when it comes to repairing TVs and electronics but usually pretty good with mechanical things and structures.
I know!! It stood out a mile.You shouldn't have got arsey about the advice I gave you. I've been in the repair trade for over 40 years now, faultfinding is no problem but I always refer to a user manual to set up an old piece of equipment.
Your tv is more than 10 years old and I doubted you still had the manual.

I'll leave you in peace now, welcome to DW. :)
 
This evening I flashed eeprom with the file kindly provided by Chookey in post #4.
Turned TV on but not behaving. Snow is covering image on screen and impossible to read. Tried service menu but TV does not allow reset. After about ten minutes the TV settled down to normal and everything appears to work. Very much like an old valve set requiring warm up. Any ideas what could be the cause?
 
As regards the original eeprom I suspect it is fine. I replaced that one with a blank one which is now in the set and flashed with file provided in post #4.

I found I can read, erase and flash the eeprom I removed. Also verified the flash and no reported errors.
 
Could my problem be bad solder or trace line? Set works when allowed to warm up. Won’t work if started from cold. Intend to heat main logic board with a hair dryer tomorrow if set does not behave. Could then possibly home in on where the problem is located.
 
I finally got my Samsung TV fixed. Problem on mine was not EEPROM chip or dried out capacitors on power supply board although the TV set had failed power supply board capacitors replaced under warranty years ago.

Problem turned out to be dried out surface mount 1000uF 10V capacitors C1110 & C1177 on the main TV board. They are hidden inside a metal screen hence can not be seen unless screen is removed. I checked all mainboard capacitors in circuit using a rather impressive and not too expensive Chinese ESR meter and concluded only C1110 and C1177 were bad. I replaced these with standard electrolytic 105C 1000uF 16V capacitors which have much longer service life than the 2000 hours specified for the SMD capacitors fitted by Samsung.

There was no need for any hot air station. I did all work using my £3 Lidl soldering iron, solder, flux and solder wick. Both SMD capacitors came off by twisting them with a pair of pliars causing no damage to the board.

Many thanks for all advice received.
 
Forgot to mention, I also replaced a blown speaker. It obviously got overloaded due to the many endless and noisy start cycles to get the set heated up and working. Replaced with a second hand speaker of same type bought locally in Blackburn, Aberdeenshire for only £2.50.
 
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