Non Nonsense, Straight Answer, Clearly Explained - Central Heating

Exos

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Righty. I'm kind of sick browsing forums/sites etc with no straight answer on how the feck I actually in literal terms fill my central heating system with sludge cleaner and how long to leave it in to circulate before I drain it down and fill with inhibitor.

I have a sealed system, yet looking on various sites they all go on about head units, filling loop etc etc, but the few that talk about adding via a radiator don't tell you how! I've seen a 300ml cartridge application for the inhibitor (is one application enough?) and other kits on which seemingly require you connect it to a valve....

I need to replace my living room and landing radiators, so thought I would use this opportunity to clean my system out (having had no inhibitor added for years and it most likely by now being non existent)

Please someone explain to me how I get both into the system and what I need to buy; i've also seen concentrated gel, is this the same method for getting it into the system?
 
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You say no valve ? surely you have valves on the rads ?

If so, turn both valves off completely. Losen pipe fixings that hold the pipe too the wall at each end, then crack the nut very slightly at each end of the rad. Then lift the rad off the brackets and lay the rad down too the floor.
Undo the rest of the nuts each end and pull pipes off the rad.

I would say, pour out water and add what you want too add too the system too the radiator, refit in reverse. The angle the rad is at while fitting should prevent any escape.
Bleed and refil the system.

You will likely need two bowls, one under each nut of the rad too catch the little amout of water that will escape.


I am not a plumber, so it may well be different but tha is the way I'd do it :)
 
In simple terms,your sealed system must have a filling point/loop,usually a half inch fitting of some kind,yes?

So find it,stick a funnel in it and add your inhibitor, remove funnel, reconnect the filling loop and top up the system,

Now that's very basic but will work :)

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Maybe I'm being a numpty, but are we talking about this loop, if it is indeed the filling loop they refer too, and if so do I simply disconnect here, add in in some way??

2012-06-14 21.58.24.jpg
 
Yes that looks like it m8,but its hard for me to be sure,

My earlier post should also have stated that your filling point will need to be above some pipework, rad or boiler as you cannot pour liquid uphill :)

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Yes that looks like it m8,but its hard for me to be sure,

My earlier post should also have stated that your filling point will need to be above some pipework, rad or boiler as you cannot pour liquid uphill :)

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My thoughts exactly and that's the only loop so I was struggling to see how from that point leaving me the only other option via a rad, which I was also struggling with...how
 
My thoughts exactly and that's the only loop so I was struggling to see how from that point leaving me the only other option via a rad, which I was also struggling with...how

But its looks like that fill point attaches to a pipe that runs vertically and drops down under the floor?

So that should allow you to add your inhibitor :)

But if your not confident get a professional in m8

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if you have rads that have screw in bleed valves you can drain down the central heating system remove the screw in bleed valves then just use some 15mm copper with a bend and funnel to pour inhibitor into the rad

Basically release pressure then drain off at the rad your putting inhibitor in
Close rad valves while pouring in inhibitor
always handy to remove the cap on the other side of the rad to let some air out while filling with inhibitor


HERES A VERY CRAPPY DIAGRAM LOL

13ymbud.jpg


This will only work though if you have the screw in cap and bleed valve
 
kin hell guys... find the drain off on your pipe work, will be on rad or pipework somewhere (look below)..

GMPC63.jpg

you'll need a hose pipe (or bucket if you can get it under it)... attach hose to drain off valve and let some water out (remember to remove hose and tight valve back up after). you will now have air in the rads, bleed the bottom rads so water draws from upstairs... you now have air in the upstairs rads,




remove the bleed valve bolt (the whole thing) on one of them upstairs rads get a funnel and pour it in... bleed valve bolt (the whole thing) back on and tighten... (see below)

400px-Radiator_bleed_valve_4595-3.jpg

go to boiler and refill boiler with filling loop.

vaillant.jpg

bleed your rads again/fill to right pressure, it will be no lower than 1.5bar or your boiler wont fire.

job done.

remember your system will be pressurised so its not as simple as chucking it in via the filling loop.

easiest way for the "man at home" fix....


edited: virtually the above diagram in the post above mine...sorry didnt see it when i posted.
 
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kin hell guys... find the drain off on your pipe work, will be on rad or pipework somewhere..

you'll need a hose pipe... attach hose to drain off valve and let some water out, you will now have air in the rads, bleed the bottom rads so water draws from upstairs... you now have air in the upstairs rads,

remove the bleed valve bolt (the whole thing) on one of them upstairs rads get a funnel and pour it in... bleed valve bolt (the whole thing) back on and tighten...

go to boiler and refill boiler with filling loop.

job done.

remember your system will be pressurised so its not as simple as chucking it in via the filling loop.

easiest way for the "man at home" fix....


edited: virtually the above diagram in the post above mine...sorry didnt see it when i posted.


Dont forget mate he is changeing some rads.....
 
remember your system will be pressurised so its not as simple as chucking it in via the filling loop.

It is because obviously he will need to drain down the system to some degree first d'oh :D

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I lost more than 3x's what you did.... had my money where i thought it would win lol....

Doesn't bode well for England tomorrow so lol

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kin hell guys... find the drain off on your pipe work, will be on rad or pipework somewhere (look below)..

View attachment 66960

you'll need a hose pipe (or bucket if you can get it under it)... attach hose to drain off valve and let some water out (remember to remove hose and tight valve back up after). you will now have air in the rads, bleed the bottom rads so water draws from upstairs... you now have air in the upstairs rads,




remove the bleed valve bolt (the whole thing) on one of them upstairs rads get a funnel and pour it in... bleed valve bolt (the whole thing) back on and tighten... (see below)

View attachment 66961

go to boiler and refill boiler with filling loop.

View attachment 66962

bleed your rads again/fill to right pressure, it will be no lower than 1.5bar or your boiler wont fire.

job done.

remember your system will be pressurised so its not as simple as chucking it in via the filling loop.

easiest way for the "man at home" fix....


edited: virtually the above diagram in the post above mine...sorry didnt see it when i posted.

Your soldering is a bit sloppy thomo.........:Jester:
 
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