DiSEqC Satellite Motor

srgberian

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Hi i currently have a Technomate TM-2600 Super DiSEqC Satellite Motor about 5 years old now,i have noticed a lot of play in the arm bit ( the part that moves the dish) i can move it manually left and right and forward and back,when the motor moves the dish some times the dish doesent sit at the right location i can push the side of the dish making the arm move slightly so it picks up the desired satellite i need,can these be tighten up or scrap it and get a new one? Thanx in advance :)
 
I have never yet had one of those to bits, so, as you've nothing really to lose, I'd say open it up & have a look. I have repaired numerous older actuators- they often seize up through lack of use. Sounds like yours has had the opposite.
Best take photo's as you go, it can help with re-assembly!
 
Very good clear guide will try this when the rain stops .

That pdf guide has been around for ages & looks well done as a pdf, except it's also always been fundamentally wrong & has probably damaged far more motors as a result than if it had never been followed.
 
That pdf guide has been around for ages & looks well done as a pdf, except it's also always been fundamentally wrong & has probably damaged far more motors as a result than if it had never been followed.

Useful to know. I'll stick to pulling things apart, thank you!
 
That pdf guide has been around for ages & looks well done as a pdf, except it's also always been fundamentally wrong & has probably damaged far more motors as a result than if it had never been followed.

Is there a correct method?
 
Is there a correct method?


Screw 2 & 3 are m5 bolts holding one of the worm drive's bearings on slotted holes so it can move it's teeth in & out of the main gear's teeth which is how it tightens, screw 1 is the adjuster, a simple wedge shape block with a crude self tapping screw (screw 1) that pulls the wedge against one of the worm drive's bearings & pushing it's teeth into the main gear's if tightened, tightening 2 & 3 & then touching 1 damages the adjuster as it chews the hole it's in as 2 & 3 are tight & so is the bearing so it becomes useless and just turns.

Check 2 & 3 first are tight, it might be they've just come loose, do it with a meter etc. & if it's still loose check the main bolt's tight through the main motor stub, if it's still loose then loosen 2 & 3 then tighten 1 a little then re-tighten 2 & 3 - using a meter & constantly moving & checking the tension and amps but over the whole arc.
 
Screw 2 & 3 are m5 bolts holding one of the worm drive's bearings on slotted holes so it can move it's teeth in & out of the main gear's teeth which is how it tightens, screw 1 is the adjuster, a simple wedge shape block with a crude self tapping screw (screw 1) that pulls the wedge against one of the worm drive's bearings & pushing it's teeth into the main gear's if tightened, tightening 2 & 3 & then touching 1 damages the adjuster as it chews the hole it's in as 2 & 3 are tight & so is the bearing so it becomes useless and just turns.

Check 2 & 3 first are tight, it might be they've just come loose, do it with a meter etc. & if it's still loose check the main bolt's tight through the main motor stub, if it's still loose then loosen 2 & 3 then tighten 1 a little then re-tighten 2 & 3 - using a meter & constantly moving & checking the tension and amps but over the whole arc.

Thanx for the heads up havent touched the motor yet but glad i saw your post.
 
Personally for all the arseing about a Motor is not even the price of a decent indian takeaway, Have beans on toast with the wife and kids and treat yourself to a new motor FFS :)
 
Thanx for the heads up havent touched the motor yet but glad i saw your post.

If the motor is sound & it just needs tightening, there's no need to pull it all down & change the motor & redo it all for the sake of just getting a screwdriver out, motors can last for years and years after that, you just make that judgement if it's OK & just needs tightening or really is on it's last legs or it's a bad design one.

If doing the above doesn't solve it, at that point it has to come down and at that point it's an easy decision then to just swap it but if anyone wants to go further & has the time then open it up & check it's not just loose inside, you can quite often improve on their design too because they are made as cheap as they can.
 
going to replace it rather then mess about . Note sure which one to go with either the

SUPREME DARK LED MOTOR METAL GEAR DiSEqC 1.2 / 1.3 USALS - SYSTEMSAT

Features Compatible with all DiSEqC 1.2 - 1.3 / USALS Receivers Drive Dish up to 1.4m at Very High Speed Quick Installation by only One Coaxial Cable Water Resistant Manual East / West Buttons for Easy Installation Two LED Indicators for Monitoring the Motor Operation DiSEqC 1.2 - 1.3 / USALS Go To X Functions Compatible Smart Software Achieves very High Positioning Resolution of 0.1 Degree Compact Mechanism and Patened ZERO BACKLASH Design Ultra Low Noise and Low Current Motor / Gear Box Metal Gear LED Dispaly Intelligent Find calculator build in Specification Protocol: DiSEqC 1.2 & Goto "X" 1.3 Compatible Receiver: Receiver with DiSEqC 1.2 or Interface Box Antenna Size: 120 cm Max. Speed: 1.9 / sec (at 13V) ; 2.5 / sec (at 18V) Azimuth Angle: 80 East ~ 80 West ( 160° ) Elevation Angle: 25~75 Input Voltage: 13 / 18Vdc Output Voltage: 13 / 18Vdc Power Consumption: 50 mA (Standby) 200mA (Normal) 350mA (Max.) Satellite Positions: 60 positions


or

Our new generation of DiSEqC motors are 35% faster and 20% quieter than before!* The strong, compact and high-quality TM-2600 is simple to use from your satellite receiver and is built to last. The motor, cogs, components... are all high-grade, high-quality to ensure that the motor will last, even if you change satellites more than 15 times a day! Compared to the TM-2300, the TM-2600's main cog is made from metal. This is to ensure greater durability and strength. The motor is compatible with DiSEqC 1.2 & 1.3 (goto X) protocols, therefore it will work with compatible satellite receivers on the market. *When compared to the TM-2200 Ultra Low Noise Faster than before!* Compatible with DiSEqC 1.2 & 1.3 Adjustable Hardware Limits (East/West Limits) For dishes up to 1.2m Controlled via 1 coaxial cable Zero play to avoid loss of signal LED for Status Check Manual Move Button

as both in budget .
 
If you're not confident of touching a motor you probably are better off just getting a new one.

With the JAEGER-SUPERJACK name the 320s should be really good- not the ones I've seen, the Superjack 380s have been though if you can get hold of one now but they may be the same as the Darkmotor Superior.
 
Have seen a Powertech 380 and a Clarke Tech 380 but never heard of the Superjack 380, the 320 looks externally and internally as both the Clarke Tech and Powertech 380 as well as the Dark motor.

Same situation again its a Clone of a Clone of a Clone all re-badged to suit
 
Have seen a Powertech 380 and a Clarke Tech 380 but never heard of the Superjack 380, the 320 looks externally and internally as both the Clarke Tech and Powertech 380 as well as the Dark motor.

Same situation again its a Clone of a Clone of a Clone all re-badged to suit

The 320 is more like the plastic version of the Darkmotor - the 'Super' or the plastic geared Satgear but not exactly the same. They used to have the 380 on their site along with the 320 and the 120, the 320 & 380 were made in the same factory as the Darkmotor, no idea why they've gone down the way they have diseqc motor wise, the quality of the 120 fell too, they still make some of the best jacks you can get.
 
Apparently Jaeger-Superjack have changed their motor line up, a case of that was then this is now, - the 320 they are selling now is not the plastic geared silver one they were selling (unless you end up with an old one) but what looks more like the Darkmotor or maybe Navigator2#.

Hence the "All metal drive DiSEqC/USALS motor. Faster, stonger and more durable than earlier models". I wouldn't have kept the same model number of the plastic predecessor tbh - but at least they say they are stonger.

Looks like they are badging that better linear v box (g box) too.
 
Apparently Jaeger-Superjack have changed their motor line up, a case of that was then this is now, - the 320 they are selling now is not the plastic geared silver one they were selling (unless you end up with an old one)

.

I've had a message off a mate that they are advertising those with a picture of the new Jaeger Superjack DG 320 but what they send is the old one & if you look at all their neg feedback, some people have even ordered TM2600s off them & they've sent them different motors??
 
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